COREY
the
circuit
board
from
the
bottom
and
are
soldered
to
the
top.
Be
careful
that
they
don’t
short
together
as
there
are
small
traces
that
come
close
to
them,
and
also
keep
them
away
from
the
switch
contacts.
I
used
24AWG
wire.
Once
that
is
done
cut
a
notch
or
drill
a
hole
in
the
ISM
plastic
cover
to
fit
the
wires
through
when
snapping
the
ISM
back
together.
Mine
came
out
the
front
of
the
ISM.
(If
installed
in
the
car,
the
side
of
the
ISM
that
faces
the
front
of
the
car)
Next,
construct
the
circuit
that
my
schematic
depicts.
All
of
the
parts
are
available
at
Radio
Shack.
The
RFID
coil
can
be
made
from
any
coated
wire.
28AWG
transformer
wire
will
work
well.
I
used
28AWG
aluminum
wire
that
I
had
lying
around.
100
turns
will
work
fine.
Make
sure
that
the
tip
of
your
spare
key
will
fit
inside
the
coil.
Don’t
make
it
too
big
either;
you
want
the
tip
of
the
key
to
just
fit
inside.
The
spare
key
will
be
taped
or
tie
‐
wrapped
inside
the
coil
and
the
coil
will
be
hidden
up
inside
the
dash
so
no
one
can
easily
get
to
it.
The
RS
(Remote
Starter)
doesn’t
need
a
lot
of
current
because
this
car
uses
a
low
current
digital
ignition
switch.
So
I
hooked
the
RS’s
power
wires
to
a
spare
fuse
in
the
IPEC
22.
(fuse
panel
at
left
side
on
the
dash)
I
removed
the
RS
main
30
amp
fuses
and
replaced
them
with
10
amp
ones.
The
RS
should
also
include
a
keyless
entry
feature.
Without
this
you
won’t
be
able
to
unlock
the
door
when
the
RS
is
active.
This
is
because
the
CIM
ignores
all
keyless
entry
requests
from
the
factory
transmitter
when
the
ignition
is
on.
Unfortunately
because
the
entire
car
runs
on
a
bus
system,
you
will
need
to
feed
wires
into
the
driver
door
to
access
the
lock/unlock
and
trunk
release
wires;
unless
of
course
you
can
find
an
aftermarket
I
‐
BUS
interface
for
a
Saab
9
‐
3.
Good
Luck!
You
can
also
purchase
a
RS
with
keyless
entry
and
an
alarm
if
you
want
even
more
security.
I
used
the
Avital
4103
which
has
keyless
entry.
You
can
get
one
on
EBAY
for
about
$50.
Use
the
WIS
to
find
the
wires
and
connectors
for
the
parking
lights,
door
locks,
trunk
release,
brake
light
switch,
hood
switch,
(if
you
have
a
factory
alarm)
etc.
Follow
the
instructions
that
came
with
the
RS
to
hook
up
these
wires.
You
will
only
use
the
IGN
#1,
IGN
#2,
and
START
outputs
on
the
RS.
You
will
not
need
the
ACC
output.
Connect
these
wires
to
your
newly
created
circuit
board.
Also
connect
the
wires
you
previously
soldered
to
the
ISM
circuit
board
to
your
new
circuit
board.
I
highly
suggest
using
plug/jack
connectors
so
things
can
be
removed
easily
for
testing/troubleshooting.
With
any
luck
when
you
hook
everything
up
it
will
work.
If
it
doesn’t
work,
you’ll
need
basic
electronic
troubleshooting
skills
to
find
the
problem.
I
have
it
working
on
a
2008
Saab
9
‐
3
Turbo
X
with
the
B284R
2.8T
V6
engine
with
an
automatic
transmission.
I
didn’t
fake
the
module
wake
up
(prepare
to
start)
signal
as
the
B284R
engine/ECM
will
start
just
fine
without
it.
Other
engines/ECMs
may
need
this
signal.
It
is
used
primarily
to
prime
the
fuel
pump.
On
this
engine
the
fuel
rail
remains
under
pressure
while
the
engine
is
off
and
the
pump
can
almost
instantly
supply
the
required
pressure
to
the
rail
anyhow.
If
your
engine/ECM
needs
this
signal,
another
wire
will
be
required.
