33
WARNING:
Never feed wood with your hands when making any
non-through cut such as rabbets or dadoes. To avoid
personal injury, always use push blocks, push sticks,
and featherboards.
Unplug the saw.
Remove the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls.
Place riving knife in “down” position.
Unlock the bevel locking lever.
Adjust the bevel angle to 0°.
Lock the bevel locking lever.
Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece.
Depending on the shape and size of the wood, use
either the rip fence or miter gauge.
Plug the saw into the power source and turn the saw
on.
Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the
workpiece into the blade.
Always use push blocks, push sticks, and/or feather-
boards when making non-through cuts to reduce the
risk of serious injury.
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.
Once all non-through cuts are completed:
Unplug your saw.
Reinstall the riving knife in the “up” position then install
the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls.
MAKING A LARGE PANEL CUT
See Figure 44.
Make sure the saw is properly secured to a work surface to
avoid tipping from the weight of a large panel.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid possible serious injury.
WARNING:
Never make freehand cuts (cuts without the miter gauge
or rip fence). Unguided workpieces can result in serious
injury.
Place a support the same height as the top of the saw
table behind the saw for the cut work. Add supports to
the sides as needed.
Depending on the shape of the panel, use the rip fence
or miter gauge. If the panel is too large to use either the
rip fence or the miter gauge, it is too large for this saw.
Make sure the wood does not touch the blade before
you turn on the saw.
Turn the saw on.
Position the workpiece flat on the table with the edge
flush against the rip fence. Let the blade build up to full
speed before feeding the workpiece into the blade.
Use a push stick to move the piece through the cut and
past the blade.
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.
MAKING A NON-THROUGH CUT
See Figure 45.
Non-through cuts (made with a standard 10 in. blade) can be
made with the grain (ripping) or across the grain (cross cut).
The use of a non-through cut is essential to cutting grooves,
rabbets, and dadoes. This is the only type cut that is made
without the blade guard assembly installed. Make sure the
blade guard assembly is reinstalled upon completion of this
type of cut. Read the appropriate section which describes
the type of cut in addition to this section on non-through or
dado cuts. For example, if your non-through cut is a straight
cross cut, read and understand the section on straight cross
cuts before proceeding.
WARNING:
When making a non-through cut, the blade is covered
by the workpiece during most of the cut. Be alert to
the exposed blade at the start and finish of every cut to
reduce the risk of personal injury.
OPERATION
Fig. 44
SUPPORT
LARGE PANEL CUT
HEIGHT/BEVEL
ADJUSTING
HANDWHEEL
RIP FENCE