Ryobi RTS1526RG Original Instructions Manual Download Page 8

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Through cutting:

Any cutting operation where the saw

blade protrudes beyond the thickness of the workpiece.
For this operation the riving knife should be in the raised

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mitre guide to correctly position the workpiece.

Non through cutting:

Any cutting operation where the

saw blade does not protrude beyond the thickness of the
workpiece. For this operation the riving knife should be
in its lowered position. The top of the riving knife should
be slightly lower than the top of the saw blade. The blade

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correctly position the workpiece.

Rip cutting:

Using the rip fence parallel to the blade to

guide the workpiece. Predominantly the cut is made in the
direction of the wood grain (if present). Can be a through
or non through cut.

Cross cutting:

Using the mitre guide or cross cutting

fence. This device is designed to slide parallel to the saw

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across the cutting axis of the blade. Predominantly the cut
is made across the direction of the wood grain (if present).
Can be a through or non through cut.

Bevel cutting:

The angle of the blade with respect to the

table surface is changed between 90 and 45°. Produces a
cut with an angled edge. Can be a through or non through
cut. Either the rip fence or the mitre guide should be used
to correctly position the workpiece.

Mitre cutting:

The workpiece is presented to the blade

at an angle. The angle required is set on the mitre guide,
which can then hold the workpiece at this angle whilst
sliding parallel to the blade to make the cut. Can be a
through or non through cut.

Tapered cutting:

Tapered cross cuts are possible using

the mitre guide set to the angle required. It is not possible

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USING THE FENCE SAFELY

Never use the rip fence and the mitre angle guide at
the same time. This increases the potential for kickback
and personal injury. When either is not in use, remove
it from the table and store safely out of the way.

Each time the fence is used or moved to another
position it is essential that it is checked for parallelism
to the saw blade.

A non parallel fence can trap the workpiece between
the blade and the fence causing kickback which can
lead to severe personal injury to yourself and others.

A badly adjusted or set fence can cause the workpiece
to be fed toward the blade at the wrong angle which
may cause the blade to bind or jam. It can also cause
kickback (see above).

To fit or adjust the fence properly, hook the end of the
fence over the back edge of the table then lower the
front edge to engage with the front of the table. Then
apply pressure from the front of the fence so that the
two edges set at a right angle to the direction of the
fence contact the front edge of the table. This helps
ensure the fence is parallel to the blade. Then lock
the fence in position by pushing the locking handle
downwards.

The force by which the locking handle holds the fence
in position can be adjusted by rotating the knurled
screw just above the locking handle.

Always check the parallelism of the fence to the blade
by measurement or by an accurately cut block of wood
before making the cut.

Aligning the distance marks, blade to fence

Set the edge of the fence against the blade and then adjust
the indicator sight glass to align with the 0 mm mark on the
front edge of the table. Loosen the screw, adjust the sight
glass and re-tighten the screw.

Use of the auxiliary fence

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fence to the main fence is required.

a. When a narrow workpiece cannot be held by hand

or push stick because the fence is in the way.

b. When a thin workpiece is being cut. Very thin

workpieces may slip under the main fence and
catch or drag causing potential for kickback. Use
the auxiliary fence to help prevent this.

Remove the auxiliary fence whenever it is safe to use the
main fence only.
When making bevel cuts on narrow work pieces, always
use the fence on the opposite side of the blade to the way
it is leaning over otherwise it is easy to trap the push block
or stick against the blade guard or fence.

Fixing the auxiliary fence to the main fence

With the wing nuts and washers on one side of the
fence, push the bolts through from the other side, and
screw together a few turns. Now slide the auxiliary fence
over the bolt heads onto the slot provided. Tighten the
auxiliary fence in position as required.

NOTE:

The auxiliary fence is only intended to guide the

workpiece past the blade and riving knife, it does not have
to cover the full length of the main fence.
Remove the auxiliary fence whenever it is safe to use the
main fence only. Do not leave the bolts and wing nuts in
place on the main fence.

Using a feather board

A feather board is a device similar to a comb but cut at
an angle. Normally constructed of wood or plastic the thin

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applying an even and consistent pressure to hold the
workpiece. Use one of these devices when a precision cut
of a narrow workpiece is required. This device is attached
to the table via the mitre guide slots and alleviates the need

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Third party feather boards may be purchased at specialist
woodworking stores.

OVERLOAD PROTECTION DEVICE

The product has an overload protection device. When
overloading is detected, the product will automatically
switch off. Turn the power off. If the overload protector is
actuated, the motor must be allowed to cool down for 3
minutes. Make sure the blade can rotate freely and is not