9
OPERATION
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Do not cut down trees having an extreme lean or large
trees with rotten or dead limbs, loose bark, or hollow
trunks. Have these trees pushed or dragged down with
heavy equipment, then cut them up.
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Consider the distribution and weight of heavy limbs (B).
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Clear out the undergrowth around the tree to be felled
(C).
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Do not cut trees near electrical wires or buildings (D).
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Consider the direction in which the tree leans (E).
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Check the tree for damaged or dead branches which
could fall and hit you during felling (F).
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Periodically glance at the top of the tree during the
back-cut to assure the tree is going to fall in the desired
direction.
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Keep all bystanders at a safe distance (G) (at least twice
the height of the tree).
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Prepare a path of safe retreat (H).
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If the tree starts to fall in the wrong direction, or if the saw
gets caught or hung up during the fall, leave the saw and
save yourself!
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Consider the wind direction before felling a tree.
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Do not fell trees near power lines or near buildings which
could be struck by falling limbs or the tree itself.
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The chainsaw operator should keep on the uphill side of
the terrain as the tree is likely to roll or slide downhill after
it is felled.
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Remove dirt, stones, loose bark, nails, staples, and wire
from the tree where felling cuts are to be made.
WARNING
Do NOT fell trees near power lines or near buildings
which could be struck by falling limbs or the tree
itself.
PROPER PROCEDURE FOR TREE FELLING
See Figure 21 - 24.
1. Pick your escape route (or routes in case the intended
route is blocked). Clear the immediate area around the
tree and make sure there are no obstructions in your
planned path of retreat. Clear the path of safe retreat
approximately 135° from the planned line of fall (A).
2. Consider the force and direction of the wind, the lean
and balance of the tree, and the location of large limbs.
These things infl uence the direction in which the tree will
fall. Do not try to fell a tree along a line different from its
natural line of fall (B).
3. Cut a notch about 1/3 the diameter of the trunk in the
side of the tree (C). Make the notch cuts so they intersect
at right angles to the line of fall. This notch should be
cleaned out to leave a straight line.
To keep the weight of the wood off the saw, always make
the lower cut of the notch before the upper cut.
4. Make the back-cut (D) level and horizontal, and at a
minimum of 5 cm above the horizontal cut of the notch.
NOTE: Never cut through to the notch. Always leave
a band of wood between the notch and back cut
(approximately 5 cm or 1/10 the diameter of the tree).
This is called a “hinge” or “hingewood” (E).
It controls the fall of the tree and prevents slipping or
twisting or shoot-back of the tree off the stump.
On large diameter trees, stop the back cut before it is
deep enough for the tree to either fall or settle back on
the stump. Then insert soft wooden or plastic wedges (F)
into the cut so they do not touch the chain. Drive wedges
in, little by little, to help jack the tree over.
5. As tree starts to fall, stop the chainsaw and put it down
immediately. Retreat along the cleared path, but watch
the action in case something falls your way.
WARNING
Never cut through to the notch when making a back
cut. The hinge controls the fall of the tree: this is the
section of wood between the notch and back-cut.
REMOVING BUTTRESS ROOTS
See Figure 25.
A buttress root is a large root extending from the trunk of the
tree above the ground. Remove large buttress roots prior
to felling. Make the horizontal cut (A) into the buttress fi rst,
followed by the vertical cut (B). Remove the resulting loose
section (C) from the work area. Follow the correct tree felling
procedure after you have removed the large buttress roots.
Refer to “Operation – Proper Procedure for Tree Felling”
earlier in this manual.
BUCKING
See Figure 26.
Bucking is the term used for cutting a fallen tree to the
desired log length.
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Cut only one log at a time.
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Support small logs on a sawing stand or another log while
bucking.
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Keep a clear cutting area. Make sure that no objects can
contact the guide bar nose and chain during cutting: this
can cause kick-back (A).
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During bucking operations, stand on the uphill side so
that the cut-off section of the log cannot roll over you.
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Sometimes it is impossible to avoid pinching (with just
standard cutting techniques) or diffi cult to predict which
way a log will settle when cut.
