4
SPEAKER PREPARATION
Installation (continued):
• Inside wall space less than 10” wide and 24” in height
• Ceilings and walls where you know that there are pipes,
heating ducts and ESPECIALLY AC wiring in the general
vicinity. For example, if there is an outlet along the
baseboard, there is often a live wire running partly up
the wall at that point. The same applies for ceiling fans,
overhead lighting, etc.
SPEAKER WIRE PATHS
In general, you should pay particular attention to the fol-
lowing areas:
• Avoid running speaker wires close to house electrical
wiring for any distance. If you have to run them parallel,
make sure to space the speaker wires at least two feet
from the AC line. It is permissible for speaker wires to
cross paths with AC lines or go through the same hole
together with house wiring if they separate before and
after.
• Make sure that the entire path between speakers and
amplifier is clear and not obstructed by a floor or ceiling
joist or masonry wall which you won’t be able to drill
through.
• Remember that the other end of the wires has to come
out somewhere to connect with the amplifier. Confirm
ahead of time that you can drill an outlet hole easily
and in an unobtrusive spot.
PAINTING THE SPEAKERS
If you like the designer white finish which is a part of your
Russound Atmosphere speakers, then you are ready to
install. But if you want your speakers to completely blend
in with a colored wall or accent the surface, now is the
time to paint the speakers’ outer frames and perforated
grilles. The speaker’s outer surfaces are ready to accept
ordinary latex wall paint or aerosol spray paint.
CUTTING HOLES FOR THE SPEAKERS
Wallboard is an easy surface in which to make a relatively
neat hole. Make sure you don’t make it any bigger than the
template.
1. Determine the location of your joists/studs so that the
speaker can be approximately centered between them.
2. When you’re reasonably sure of where the joists or studs
are (and are ABSOLUTELY sure that there isn’t an electri-
cal cable, water pipe or heating duct in that vicinity of
wall), position one of the cardboard mounting templates
and draw an outline with a pencil.
3. Score the outline of the template with a utility knife to
prevent chipping or wall paper from tearing. Then use a
keyhole/drywall saw or motorized spiral-cut tool to
make the opening.
- If you’re dealing with lath and plaster or thick paneling,
you need to use a different technique. Drill 1-inch holes
at the corners of the pencil outline. Then use a fine-
toothed keyhole saw or even a hacksaw blade with VERY
slow strokes to saw through and remove the inner sur-
face.
HOOKING UP YOUR SPEAKERS
IDENTIFYING “+” AND “-”
You need to be able to discriminate between the two con-
ductors of the speaker wire. If your wire has transparent
insulation, this is easy: one conductor will be copper-col-
ored and the other silver-colored. Generally, professionals
denote the copper one as POSITIVE (+) and the silver one as
NEGATIVE (-).
Figure 6
Typical indicator of positive (+)(striped) and
negative (-)(solid) speaker wire conductors
