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Properly maintained, your new, non-metallic water heater will provide years of
dependable trouble-free service. It is suggested that a routine preventive main-
tenance program be established and followed by the user. It is further recom-
mended that a periodic inspection of the operating controls, heating element
and wiring should be made by service personnel qualified in electric appliance
repair.
1. ROUTINE PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
A.
Most electrical appliances make some sound when in operation, even
when new. If the hissing or singing sound level increases excessively,
the electric heating element may require cleaning. Contact your installer
or plumbing contractor to inspect.
B.
The area near the water heater must be kept free of flammable liquids
such as gasoline or paint thinners, adhesives or other combustible
materials.
C.
At least once a year, lift and release the lever handle on the tempera-
ture pressure relief valve, located on top of the water heater, to make
certain the valve operates freely and allow several gallons to flush
through discharge line (see Figure 13). Make certain the discharged
water is directed to an open drain.
Before manually operating the relief valve, make certain no one
will be exposed to the danger of coming in contact with the hot
water released by this valve. The water may be hot enough to cre-
ate a SCALD hazard. The water released should be directed to a
suitable drain to prevent injury or damage.
NOTE: If the temperature and pressure relief valve on the water
heater discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal expan-
sion in a “Closed” water system. Contact the water supplier or
your plumbing contractor on how to correct this. DO NOT plug
the relief valve outlet.
D.
A water heater’s tank can act as a settling basin for solids (sand, silt,
dirt and mineral scale) suspended in the water. It is, therefore, not
uncommon for these deposits to accumulate in the bottom of the tank.
It is suggested that a few quarts of water be drained from the water
heater’s tank ONCE EVERY MONTH to clean the tank of these
deposits. (See Figure 12)
E.
Rapid closing of faucets or solenoid valves in automatic water using
appliances can cause a pounding “water hammer” sound. “Water
hammer” can be described as a banging noise heard in a water pipe
following an abrupt alteration of the flow with resulting pressure surges.
Strategically located risers in the water pipe system can be used to
minimize the problem. Also water hammer arresting devices are usual-
ly available from your plumber or local plumbing supply store.
2. REPLACING THE TEMPERATURE & PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE —
If the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve should ever need replacing,
use only a valve specified by local codes, but not less than a new combina-
tion temperature and pressure relief valve, complying with the Standard for
Relief Valves and Automatic Gas Shutoff Devices for Hot Water Supply
Systems, ANSI Z21.22. The pressure rating of the relief valve must not
exceed 150 PSI, the maximum working pressure of the water heater as
marked on the rating plate. The BTUH Rating of the relief valve must not
be less than the input rating of the water heater as indicated on the rating
label located on front of the heater (1 watt = 3.412 BTUH).
Before starting to replace the Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve,
be sure to turn the power supply to the water heater ”OFF” at the
electrical distribution panel.
A.
With the power supply turned ”OFF”, close the shut-off valve installed in
the cold water supply pipe.
B.
Open a nearby hot water faucet and KEEP OPEN.
C.
Fasten a length of garden hose to the drain valve. Place the other end
of the hose at a floor drain, or other suitable location. (See FIgure 12)
D.
Open the drain valve for about a minute or until the water level in the
tank is below the relief valve.
The water drained from the tank may be hot enough to present a
SCALD HAZARD and should be directed to a suitable drain to pre-
vent injury or damage.
E.
Remove the discharge pipe from the relief valve, then remove the old
relief valve (see Figure 3 on pg. 4). Use two wrenches, one to hold the
union hex nut on the heater, and one to remove the relief valve. NEVER
use just one wrench! Doing so can damage the tank beyond repair.
F.
Be sure a seal ring is inside the center (relief valve) union hex nut. Use
factory seal washers only. DO NOT use sealants with seal ring wash-
ers! Next, turn the valve into the union fitting on the tank. Face the relief
valve outlet in a direction of the old valve. Hold the valve in place and
tighten the union hex nut.
IMPORTANT!! Do not apply heat directly to the relief valve con-
nection. If sweat connections are used, sweat tubing to adapter
before fitting adapter to relief valve on heater. Any heat applied
to the relief valve will permanently damage it and/or the tank.
G.
Install the discharge pipe to the new relief valve. (see Figure 3 on pg. 4).
H.
Open the cold water supply shut-off valve. When water from hot water
faucet opened earlier runs smooth, with no more air bubbles, close the
faucet.
I.
Turn the electric power on to place the water heater in service again.
Be sure the water heater is completely filled with water before turn-
ing on electric power.
DANGER
!
Maintenance
Figure 13 — Manually Operating the Temperature and Pressure
Relief Valve
Temperature &
Pressure Relief
Valve
Support
Strap
Discharge
Pipe
Lift and release lever on T&P Valve several times to be sure that it opens and operates
freely. Allow several gallons of water to flush through the discharge pipe
CAUTION
!
CAUTION
!
DANGER
!