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INSTALLING THE ENGINE IN A TEST STAND 

• 

WARNING. ENSURE YOU HAVE SECURELY FASTENED THE 
ENGINE TO YOUR TESTSTAND 

• 

Ensure that the bench the engine is attached to will not be pulled 
over by the thrust of the engine.   

• 

Fit a suitable sized quality propeller for running in. eg. APC type  
12x6 (2-bladed propeller); 

STARTING METHOD 

• 

STARTING MUST ALWAYS BE CARRIED OUT WITH SAFETY IN 
MIND.  Use a conventional electric starter with a correctly sized cup 
for your spinner.

 

TIPS & HINTS FOR STARTING PROCEDURE 

1. 

Eye protection should always be worn when starting and running 
your engine.   

2. 

The crankshaft must be rotated anticlockwise (i.e.) the same 
direction as normal propeller rotation

  

3. 

On a new engine or if very cold, the engine will feel quite stiff to the 
turn and until the engine has had a tank or two of fuel passed 
through it.   For initial starting purposes, we recommend needle 
should be 2 turns open.   This should be pre-set from the factory.  At 
all times ensure that the engine is on a low throttle setting when you 
start it (1/8-1/4). High throttle will make the engine difficult to turn 
over. 

4. 

When you have set up the starting arrangement as described above 
you can now start the engine.  Ensure fuel is getting through to the 
carb, and that the needle is open the correct amount. Turn the glow 
on.  Hold the starter very firmly but without pressing hard. Press the 
starter button. The engine should immediately turn over rapidly and 
fire within a few seconds.  

5.

 

Under No circumstances should you keep turning the engine 
over if it does not fire as this may cause damage to the engine. 

 

From the earliest prototypes the RCV engine has always been an 
excellent starter. If the engine will not start there is always a logical 
reason for it. In particular check that the glow is adequate, and that 
fuel is getting through.  If fuel doesn’t appear to be getting through, 
unscrew the idle needle by a ½ turn.  

6. 

If the starter will not turn the engine over remove the starter, turn the 
glow off, turn the prop back to top dead centre, close the throttle 
slightly to reduce the compression load on the starter, turn the glow 
on and try again.  If you do experience problems starting your engine 
contact RCV and we will be happy to assist

 

 

Imperial 

Metric 

Displacement 

0.58 cu in 

9.5 cc 

Weight  

17.96 oz 

550 g 

Prop Shaft Dia 

1/4” UNF  

Exhaust Thread 

M11 x 0.75 

Practical rpm 

2400 - 12000 rpm 

2-blade Prop 
sizes 

 

11x6 

11x7 

12x6 

Glow Plug 

OS ‘F’ 

Approx. fuel 
consumption 

0.35 fl oz / min 

Specifications

 

Mounting hole 
size 

3.5 mm 

 SECTION 4     

STARTING 

PRIOR TO USE, PLEASE ENSURE YOUR EXHAUST IS 
TIGHTENED 

Recommended procedure for tightening your exhaust pipe 
Use  a  14 mm  spanner  which  has a  ring spanner at one end and a 
conventional open spanner at the other.  Use the open-ended spanner to 
remove the muffler. Slide the ring spanner along the exhaust pipe and 
locate it over the exhaust pipe lock nut.   Turn the exhaust pipe to the 
desired angle and tighten the lock nut firmly.  Slide ring spanner off down 
pipe.  Replace silencer and tighten locking nut with open-ended spanner. 
Repeat the above operation with the engine warm so that the exhaust is 
tightened when the threads are expanded and use the maximum amount 
of thread. 
If  you  need a different  angled exhaust pipe, you can use one that is 
suitable for other 4-stroke engines.  RCV use standard exhaust thread 
sizes: – 58CD = M11x0.75 

GLOW PLUG CONNECTION 

• 

Use either a conventional clip on or remote glow plug connector. 

 SECTION 5     

RUNNING IN 

The running in period on any engine is critical and will affect the lifetime 
on your engine. 

• 

The rotary cylinder valve design  on your RCV58CD incorporates 
close fitting components,  therefore  your  engine will benefit from 
extended running in (eg. 1 - 2 hrs).  Power will also increase during 
running in. 

• 

Do not allow the engine to overheat during running in, therefore run in 
short bursts. 

 

Once the engine starts for the first time, leave the glow supply connected 
and let the engine warm up at a fast idle speed for 30 seconds. Increase 
the throttle setting to about ¼, and tune the high-speed needle valve for 
slightly rich running i.e. a slightly burbling exhaust note (if you have a 
tachometer aim for around 6000 rpm).   The  glow supply can now be 

Issue  13 

 28/10/2008  

 

   58CD © RCV Engines Ltd  

 

 

 Page 2 

This engine is subject to Global Patents and Design Copyrights inc. Int. Pat App. WO 03/062615 

disconnected although some drop in RPM may occur due to the rich 
mixture and comparatively low engine temperature. Leave the engine 
running like this for around 15 minutes. Stop it using the throttle and 
allow it to cool for a further 15 minutes.  

 

Now you can obtain the correct carburettor setting using the following 
procedure: 

a) 

Restart the engine, open the throttle wide and adjust the main 
needle for just slightly rich (a few rpm short of peak). 

b)  Close the throttle to around 1/3rd and, with the engine at 

around 6000 rpm, screw in the secondary needle until the 
rough (rich) running smoothes out into a nice four-stroke note.  
The needles are now ROUGHLY set but you will probably 
have to richen the main needle on the throttle up to full power. 
Test and adjust before returning to 6000 rpm. 

c) 

Reliable,  slow  running will  not  be achieved until the 
engine has been run in for at least one hour

.     When this 

running time has elapsed you can fine tune the idle needle.  
NB.  Close  attention  to  the  idle  needle settings will pay 
dividends in smoothness. 

 

Factory Needle Settings 

If you need to get back to the original factory needles settings, 
please use the info below.  This is only a starting point as there 
is no hard fast rule. 

Main Needle:  

Screw the needle in fully and then unscrew 1 3/4 

turns 

Idle Needle:  

Unscrew the needle fully out with the throttle open 

and then screw in 3 1/2 - 4 turns 

Main  needle (high speed) adjustment:

  The  main  needle should  be  

adjusted  with  the engine operating at full throttle. The engine should be 
leaned out until the RPM peaks, then enriched a small amount.  This will 
allow for the leaning out that normally occurs in flight.  
If the engine is installed in a model, the nose of the model should be 
raised to the vertical to check that the engine will run without leaning out 
in this attitude. Note that to lean the engine out the needle is screwed in. 

Idle needle (low speed) adjustment:

 If the engine does not run cleanly 

at low  or  mid  throttles the usual  problem  is  that  the  idle  needle is 
incorrectly set.  This can be adjusted with the small brass screw.  

Please follow the guidelines below to decide how the idle needle should 
be adjusted.

 

Idle Needle Adjustment Fault Finder

 

Idle mixture too lean:

 There will be a tendency for the engine 

not to start at low throttle settings. Once it does start it will run 
cleanly at mid throttle but will tend to die at low throttle. It will 
also tend to die when the throttle is opened rapidly. In general 
there will be little or no increase in engine speed when the 
glow plug is energised.  

Idle mixture too rich:

 The engine will start readily. It will run 

roughly at mid throttle settings, and at idle will splutter and 
pop. When glow is energised the engine will run more cleanly 
and the idle will speed up considerably. 

Idle mixture correctly set:

 The engine will start readily and 

run cleanly from idle to max RPM. The idle will sound slightly 
rich and “poppy”. Idle speed will increase slightly when the 
glow is energised. The throttle can be opened rapidly without 
the engine stalling. 

NB.

  The  idle  mixture  is  sensitive,  therefore increments of 

1/8th of a turn or less are all that is normally required. 

 SECTION 6   

CARBURETTOR ADJUSTMENT 

The  RCV  CD  series  produces  a  similar  amount  of  power to a 
conventional 4 stroke,  therefore  use the  4-stroke engine  size as 
recommended by your model kit manufacturer. 
An   RCV  CD   engine  is   designed   to   be   mounted   between 
conventional beam mount engine bearer.   

 
NB. 

The Prop shaft centre line is 3 mm above the bearer top face. 

Ensure that this is taken into account when installing the engine

 

• 

Provide  adequate  cooling for  the  engine   -   a good guideline 
to  follow  when  deciding  on  the  necessary  air  outlet / inlet 
requirements is 2:1 or if possible 3:1.    This enables hot air to 
escape  from  the cowl  which  is one  of the  main causes of 
overheating.

 

• 

The Carburetor may be rotated 180º  to aid mounting 

• 

The engine can be mounted in any configuration including in an 
inverted position.   

• 

The fuel tank should be installed with its centre line as near as 
possible to the centre line of the carburettor.  

• 

We  recommend using the fitting provided on the silencer to 
pressurise the fuel tank 

• 

The crankcase breather is the same as on a conventional four 
stroke.  It cannot be used for fuel pressurisation and should sim-
ply be vented to the atmosphere 

• 

A piece of fuel tubing can be attached to crankcase breather – 
max 6”"

 

 SECTION 7   

INSTALLING IN A MODEL 

Issue  13 

 28/10/2008  

 

 58CD   © RCV Engines Ltd  

 

 

 Page 3 

This engine is subject to Global Patents and Design Copyrights inc. Int. Pat App. WO 03/062615 

 SECTION 8   

CARE OF YOUR RCV 

NORMAL MAINTENANCE 

At the end of each days flying it is recommended that a few squirts of 
clean machine oil “after run oil” are introduced into the crankcase via the 
crank breather. 
If  the  engine  is  to  be removed  from the model and laid up for any 
significant period, we recommend the following:- 

• 

Ensure there is no fuel left in the engine

 

• 

Remove the glow plugs

 

• 

Flush out the engine with good quality after-run oil

 

• 

Store the engine on the plane with the nose down to keep oil in the 
bearings

 

 

DISSASSEMBLING YOUR ENGINE 

RCV do not recommend disassembling your engine unless necessary.  If 
you do wish to do this, please follow the instructions below  
1. Remove the carburettor, exhaust & the six socket headed screws 

holding the crankcase together. 

2. Separate  the  lower  crankcase  half  and  carefully  remove the 

crankshaft/piston assembly. Take care not to lose the small plastic pad 
in the side of the piston. 

To replace the front bearing 

:-  

1. Remove the pop nuts, washer, prop driver & woodruff key.   
2. The piston / conrod assembly is removed together with the bronze 

thrust washer (note the big end position on reassembly).   

3. The front bearing is a light press fit on the shaft and can normally be 

removed by tapping the shaft down onto a soft material (ie. hard wood 
or plastic). 

 

RE-ASSEMBLING YOUR ENGINE

 

Reassembly is a simple operation & the main difficulty is ensuring that 
the gears are engaged in the correct position so that the engine is timed 
correctly.   
1. Carefully remove any bearing lock material from the back bearing and 

the crankcase halves.   

2. Assemble the crankshaft piston assy in reverse order. 
3. Take the cylinder jacket and rotate the cylinder until the cylinder port is 

equally visible in the exhaust and inlet ports.   

4. Now insert two cocktail sticks (or similar) into the exposed segments of 

the  port to lock  the cylinder in position.   Insert  the piston into the 
cylinder bore and engage the gears in such a way that the piston is at 
top dead centre checking that the crankshaft webb is horizontal.   

5. Apply a small amount of bearing lock onto each bearing and assemble 

the bottom half of the crankcase with the six screws.  Do not over 
tighten these screws.   

6. Remove the cocktail sticks. 

RCV58-CD Dimensions 

Measurements 

in mm 

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