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When properly located, the pad holder is
a snug fit on the face of the caliper body
and there should be an even gap all the
way round. Re-fit all three Allen screws
next, going round tightening them a
quarter or a half turn at a time.
The caliper body is held onto the fork
leg by two pins but it must be easily
moveable. If it seems to be fixed, strip
the caliper down again and take care
to fit it all back together again evenly.
Finally, adjust the brake pads.
You can now shake the pad out of the
holder. Check the thickness of the pad
to see if it needs replacing and clean
any dust out of the pad holder and
caliper body. You must not inhale the
dust, so use multilube for this part of
the job.
Fit the new pads into the pad holder
and caliper body, holding them there
with the springs. However, they don’t
hold the pads in place very firmly and
the pins on the pad holder are a tight
fit in the holes in the caliper body, so
be careful.
5
6
7
8
Adjusting brake pads
You need an 8 mm ring spanner
and a 2.5 mm hexagon key for this
job, which is best done with the
bike upside down. First, locate the
adjuster at the fork end of the brake
arm. Hold the central bolt still with
the hexagon key while you undo the
lock nut about a turn.
Turn the hexagon key clockwise
until the pads scrape the disc when
you spin the wheel. Next, turn the
hexagon key anti-clockwise half a
turn so that the pads only scrape
the disc very lightly. Holding the
hexagon key still, you tighten the
lock nut and then apply the brakes
4 or 5 times. You should still be able
to hear a very light scraping but if
you can’t hear anything or, on the
other hand, the scraping is very
noticeable, try adjusting the pads
again.
Brake Pads
There are many types
and shapes available
specific to the make and
model of brake please
consult our website
