Quantum STAR 2003, Tuning Manual

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on the O-ring. If you don’t use the 2-1 purchase system then you gain even
more room. If you don’t have the tracks sunk in the deck you have to sail with
the jib a bit higher.
Most older boats are set up using the lock on the side of the mast for the jib
halyard balls. With a ball system I found that I usually ended up using the
second ball from the bottom on the jib halyard with the Spar tech mast. The
newer boats all use an adjustable halyard control in the boat. This allows you to
hoist the jib on a run to keep the pole out of the water in heavy air and to fine
tune the height off the deck. If you hoist the jib on the run be very careful to
lower it back at the leeward mark to the very same upwind position or you can
damage the jib. Some boats are set up with an adjustment in the boat with the
other end tying into the rake so a change in rake will adjust the halyard corre-
spondingly. I find that I never adjust the rake when I find the right place so this
isn’t a big deal. When you find the right ball to use mark it and leave it there
because a change in the height will change the angle of your jib sheet requiring a
change in fore and aft lead position.
E) Jib Lead Fore and Aft
After the jib sheet tension, the lead position fore and aft is the most important
adjustment. For the fore and aft setting, you should have some fullness in the
foot with the mid batten pointing straight back. If the foot vibrates or flaps it’s
too tight and the lead needs to go forward. The lead usually ends up about 2200
mm (86.5") from the head-
stay, but this will vary
depending on the boat and
how high off the deck the jib
is set. You can watch the jib
leech through the spreader
window in the main and line
up the leech with the mark on
the spreader for a trim guide.
I find that the jib leech is at
this mark in all but very light
or windy conditions. The in
and out track should be
angled so the distance from the jibstay to the inboard end, and to the outboard
end is about the same. This way when you go in and out you will not affect the
fore and aft adjustment. It’s best to start out with the suggested measurement
then go out and after getting your halyard right, fine tune the lead position. I find
I always come really close to the same number on different boats. I also find that
an adjustment in different conditions is rarely needed. I've had an adjustable
lead but only used it when tuning or sail testing. The big disadvantage of an
adjustable lead is it’s really easy to accidentally change it. I put felt tip marks on
the line and on the deck under the track to make sure it’s always in the right spot.
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