6
Installation – Retrofit
Existing Shower Replacement
NOTE—
In a remodel in which you are not replacing the finished wall surface (tile, or backing material) it is advisable to purchase a
PULSE ShowerSpa model that covers the location of your existing valve assembly—either single handle or two-handle type. If your
PULSE ShowerSpa model does not cover this area, you will need to either choose another PULSE ShowerSpa model that does or
make necessary repairs with appropriate materials (i.e. wallboard, tile, fiberglass, etc).
1.
TURN OFF WATER SUPPLY TO SHOWER
. Typically there is a
gate valve where the water main enters the house. Turning
the water valve off at hot water tank does not turn off cold
water supply line.
2. Make certain water is completely turned off to both hot &
cold supply lines of Shower. Turn shower valve on, both hot
and cold, to
VERIFY WATER SUPPLY IS OFF
. Open a sink
faucet in the bathroom in which you are installing the Show-
erSpa to relieve any pressure and help adequately drain
shower supply lines.
3. Remove handle(s) and trim cover(s) of your existing shower
valve, exposing valve body in wall.
4. Locate hot and cold supply lines entering valve. Using a
reciprocating saw with sharp metal saw blade, cut existing
valve out, preserving threads of the supply lines entering
valve. You should also cut the riser within wall supplying the
existing shower head. Carefully twist and remove valve.
5. Unscrew old shower head from shower arm, then unscrew
shower arm from wall.
6. Water lines must be extended to the outside of wall cavity,
4" on center. For best results, attach 90° brass fittings (avail-
able at most hardware stores) to the stub-outs maintaining
¼" – ½" of space between the fitting and finished wall. The
open end of the 90° brass fittings should point down so the
supply lines attach parallel to the wall.
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7. Make certain that when you connect to the stub-outs they
DO NOT INTERFERE
with the backside of the ShowerSpa
after mounting.
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8. Mark the location of holes for mounting brackets, making
sure brackets are level. For a person 5'8" – 6'2" tall, we rec-
ommend putting the top bracket 65
5
/
8
" from finished floor
height.
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The bottom bracket should be positioned exactly
23 ¼" below the top bracket with the holes plumb to the
upper bracket holes. Before drilling holes for bracket, make
certain ShowerSpa will rest flat against finished wall surface
at desired mounting height with supply lines connected.
9. Drill ¼" holes through wall surface using a masonry bit. Drill
slowly through wall surface to avoid cracking and chipping.
Insert anchors and securely screw brackets to wall. Before
connecting hot and cold supply lines, hang the ShowerSpa
on wall, check the height and make sure the ShowerSpa is
flush against the wall with a secure fit.
10. Connect hot and cold water supply lines to stub-outs—
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN
. Before mounting the ShowerSpa,
check fittings to make sure they are secure. Turn on water
and check for leaks. When fittings are leak-free, mount
ShowerSpa on wall.
11.
OPTIONAL—
Seal around body of ShowerSpa with a bead of
silicone.
DO NOT SEAL BOTTOM
.
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Additional fittings may be necessary depending on your specific situation.
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The mounting height can vary depending on several factors (i.e. location of supply lines, old valve access area, interference from ShowerSpa
plumbing, personal preference, etc).
