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make sure the tire is squeezed together and in the center portion of the wheel so the tire has enough slack to mount. Slide a tire iron
under the tire far enough to catch the rim, then push the tire iron up and outward just over 90° to mount that section of tire. Continue
using 2 tire irons alternately until the tire is mounted. A helper can prevent the tire bead from coming off the other side of the
remaining bead by squeezing the tire firmly. You are unlikely to pinch the tube IF you do not push the tire iron too far, which could
cause the tip of the tire iron to pinch the tube against the inside of the rim. Push the tire irons just enough to get the bead over the
rim—but no more!
Once the tire is mounted, check to make sure the valve stem is not cocked, rotate the tire to straighten the valve stem as needed.
Replace the valve core and inflate the tire until both beads fully seat on the rim. If a portion of the tire seems tucked into the wheel,
you will need to add more air pressure until the tire moves into place, sometimes with a popping sound. Do not exceed 30 to 40 psi
to seat the bead. If tire will not seat, release air pressure and lubricate the bead well with soapy water and try again. Once bead is
fully seated, adjust air pressure to 18 psi. Then snug the valve stem nut, but do not overtighten. Check to make sure that tube is hold-
ing pressure. If not, remove one side of tire as above, and remove tube for inspection and repair.
Wheels & spokes
- Check the wheels frequently for cracks and dents. Small dents are probably OK, but any cracking or large dents
require wheel replacement. Check spokes frequently for proper tension. They will loosen somewhat when the bike is new, but will
hold their tension much longer once they break in. To check spokes, use a wrench or other metal object to lightly tap each spoke.
The spoke should give off a musical tone. Check several spokes when the bike is new so you know what the proper sound is when
checking the spokes. If the sound is dull, it is either too loose or is rubbing against another spoke. Tighten the spoke using a 5mm
spoke wrench if loose, or else hold the other spoke slightly away from the spoke in question, and retest. Check the rest of the spokes,
working back and forth from one side to the other. DO NOT adjust all the spokes on one side and then do the other side as this will
warp the wheel. It may take 2 or 3 rotations to get all the spokes close to the same tone.
If wheel is to be replaced, zip tie all the spokes together where they cross each other. Remove all the spoke nipples, taking note of
how many threads are exposed when the spokes are in the tightened position. Push the rim to one side and remove the rim from the
spokes on the other side, then work your way around to completely remove the rim. Install the rim starting one one side, making
sure the angles of the spoke holes match the angle of the spokes. Insert the spoke nip-
ples just enough to stay on the spokes and work your way around the rim, inserting
the spokes and attaching the spoke nipples loosely. When all the nipples are installed,
adjust them all to the same place, somewhat less than the fully installed position noted
before disassembly. Working your way around the rim, tighten all the spokes evenly
1
⁄
4
turn at a time. When spokes begin to get tight, adjust spokes by tapping on them and
adjusting the tone until all the spokes are approximately the same sound. Mount the
wheel to the bike, and check for any wobble or oval shape as the wheel turns and
adjust as required. If all the spokes were adjusted evenly, the wheel should be fairly
true and not wobble.
Wheel removal, front
- To remove the front wheel, support the bike with the front
wheel off the ground. Loosen the front axle pinch bolt using a 6mm allen wrench.
Remove the front axle from the right side of bike using a 8mm allen wrench.
Carefully pull brake disc out of caliper and remove wheel. Check wheel bearings for
roughness or wear, service as needed.
To install front wheel, carefully spread brake pads apart and insert front disc
between pads. Line up center of wheel with fork mounts and insert axle from right
side. Tighten axle to 37 ft/lbs using an 8mm allen wrench. Hold front brake and push
suspension down several times to allow forks to align. Tighten axle pinch bolt with a
6mm allen wrench to 18 ft/lbs. Check to make sure that wheel turns freely and that
brake works correctly.
Wheel removal, rear
- To remove rear wheel, support the bike with the rear wheel
off ground. Remove the axle nut by using a 22mm wrench on both sides of axle.
Remove spacer under nut, then pull axle assembly out of rear wheel. If axle is stuck,
spray axle with penetrating oil by bearings on both sides, then screw nut back onto
axle until flush and use a plastic or brass hammer to break axle loose. Use a rod or
blunt drift to continue pushing axle out of wheel. Clean axle with steel wool or
Scotchbrite
®
and lubricate. Do not strike end of axle with steel hammer or damage to
threads will result. Take care not to lose spacers on either end of axle or against
wheel bearings. Note that the left (sprocket) side spacer is thicker (.910˝) than the
brake side spacer (.460˝). Push wheel forward, then pull chain off to outside at top of
sprocket. Work chain off from top to bottom and rest on end of swingarm. Remove
wheel by pulling straight to the rear. Check wheel bearings for roughness or wear,
service as needed.
Use rod at angle to drive out opposite
wheel bearing.
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Spacer tube in hub.
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