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SECTION ONE – POSTS
1.
Set the Template
: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown)
.
2.
Square the Template
: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
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Set the Brackets
: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add
the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do
not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it
need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will
expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If
attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a
wedge bolt.
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Square the Brackets
: It is a good idea to recheck the square of the brackets by
measuring opposing corners, similar to what was done when squaring the
template. Also be sure that the brackets are parallel with the other brackets. The
brackets can be rotated until they are aligned properly. Keeping the template in
place will ensure that the brackets do not spin. Once satisfied with their location,
install one tapcon screw (not included) in one of the remaining holes in the base
of the bracket to keep it from spinning. Use one of the 2 ½” screws instead of a
tapcon on wood decks. Now remove the template.
8.
Post Bases:
Notice that there is a top and bottom
of each post. The top is square, and the bottom of the
posts have 45 degree angle cuts creating an octagon
when looking at them from the bottom.
There is a top
trim for the post base, made of four 2x2’s, that will go
onto the posts first, then the 36” tall post bases. Do not
attach the base trim to the posts.
9.
Secure Post Base
: Secure the post base above the
angled cuts so that the posts will attach to the bracket in the
next step. One screw will hold the base up until the connection
is made to the brackets.
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Install the Posts
: Slide the posts into the brackets so
that the bracket prongs are at the corners of the posts and sitting flat on the
bracket. Attach it using 2 ½” stainless steel screws (12 screws per post, 3 on each corner).
Do this on all posts before proceeding to the next step.
NOTE: A hole has been drilled on the bottom of each post. The nut and the top of
the wedge bolt should fit inside the hole so that the bottom of the posts rests on the
bracket plate, and not on the wedge bolt. If the wedge bolt prevents the post from
sitting on the plate, fix this by either cutting the top of the wedge bolt threads (above
the nut) or by drilling the hole deeper.
SECTION 2 – BEAMS
Note: The beams are pre-built and include 45 degree braces. Help is needed when
installing beams. Ideally, a minimum of 3 people one to hold each end of the beam in
place and one to screw to the posts. Some of the beams can be up to 16’ long and weigh
over a hundred pounds.