I feel it’s important to prioritize positioning the boat
where you allow the crew to be able to execute their
jobs. Getting the chute down, having a good turn into
and exit from the mark with everyone on the rail is more
important than pushing the drop to the last moment
and then having a problem. (OK, yes, there are times
when getting that overlap outweighs the last sentence.)
Communicate about which mark you’re going to, when
you want to drop, how you want to leave the mark,
and which boats are problems or goals to be inside.
You have two gate marks on most windward-leeward
courses, so it’s going to be very simple, with three
drop types that have slightly different time variations
based on conditions or overlaps situations. I break it
down this way as my philosophy is that broken down
and made as basic as possible only increases your
execution rate.
1. Windward Drops
are usually the safest and
fastest.
2. Leeward Drops
can be a little harder to get
onboard as the lifelines come into play and you
have to pull the spinnaker back forward over and
around everything to get it into the hatch.
3. Mexican/Kiwi Drops
are not as common as the
speed of drops happens so fast these days, but
calling for one lets the crew know you will be jibing
to go around the mark. And sometimes your call
for a leeward drop will be delayed and turn into a
Mexican/Kiwi. Remember the string line is on the
port side of the boat and on the port side of the
spinnaker to help the windward drop out.
Approaching the left turn (port mark), you have the
following options:
1. Port-tack approach - this has you as give-way
boat for any crosses and usually as outside boat;
be ready to change your timing on the drop =
Windward drop
2. Starboard approach - this usually has you on the
inside and with all the rights = Leeward-drop-
turning-into-a-Mexican/Kiwi or if it’s lighter
and you’re not pressed on the layline, a straight
Mexican/Kiwi—likely because you’re looking for
the drop to happen in the turn as you gain VMG
into the mark.
Approaching the right turn (starboard mark), you
have the following options:
1. Port Approach
- usually here you are on the inside
and with rights to room to round the mark =
Windward drop with a jibe at the end. Many teams
will create a code word, so the planned maneuver
with a jibe is clear.
2. Starboard Approach
- in this case, you’re often an
outside boat with right of way only until you meet
an inside boat in the zone, so be ready to change
your drop timing = Leeward drop.
Leeward Drop
As it gets windier this drop can become risky, and a
dial-down of the bow for the drop becomes important
to help stand the boat up and limit the load and bow
waves from grabbing the tack. Remember the tack
becomes your life to get this safe. It’s always good to
have a really long tack line so if you have a trawl you
can blow it all the way to release the water out. The
countdown “5, 4, 3, 2, 1, drop!” becomes vital for the
Helm, Trimmer and Pit. The Mast will be taking up
tension on the takedown string line while standing
facing forward, braced behind the companion way
hatch (the string line will exit from a turning block
at the base of the mast). On the “3,” the bow comes
down, on “2,” the sheet is eased, then a combination of
halyard (first) and tack (second) at the drop call. With
the countdown at 1, start to open the jammer (clutch),
ready for the drop call.
Summary of Contents for IC37
Page 1: ...Sailing Manual 1 0...
Page 2: ......
Page 18: ...12 Knot Configuration Light Air Configuration...
Page 19: ...Drifting Configuration...
Page 20: ...northsails com...