Lay the frame sets on waxed paper and glue the center joints
(Figure 1-1). Make sure you match the corresponding sets (A,A; B,B;
etc.). After the glue has dried, sand the glue joints.
Frame E has a round cutout at the bottom which is in way of the
motor. There is not much of an end to glue the halves together.
After gluing, add a strip of wood over the joint to strengthen the
joint.
Stand assembly: Now is a good time to assemble the laser cut stand
so it will be ready to support the model as you build it. The stand is
composed of 4 laser cut parts; two side boards with the model name
(part 39A) and two support feet (part 39B). The stand fits together
egg crate fashion. The stand can be varnished or painted to suit
your fancy.
Installing the Frames and Breasthooks,
and Center Keel Assembly
The center keel is composed of three laser cut pieces. A single bow
keel (part 1), and double stern keel (part 2) which allows passing
the prop shaft through the hull on centerline and provides a bed for
the motor.
First, test fit and glue frame C through M to the double stern keels.
Use a small square to make sure the frames are perpendicular to the
keels.
Next, glue frames A through D to the bow keel. When the glue has
dried, glue the upper and lower laser cut breasthooks ( parts 3 and
4), to the bow keel (Figure 2-1).
Assembling
Bow Keel to
Stern Keels:
Now that all
the frames are
installed,
assemble and
glue the bow
keel into the
centerline slots
of frames C
and D which
are on the
stern keels.
The entire keel
is now assem-
bled with all
frames in place
(Figure 2-2).
Installing the Stringers
The stringers provide the internal stiffening for the frames and keep
the entire framework rigid. There are quite a few stringers on the
deck, sides, and bottom of the hull. As you add stringers, try to
keep all the frames perpendicular to the center keel. The frames are
somewhat flexible and can be easily bent out of shape. Prefit all
stringers before gluing, and check the frames with a square to make
sure they are perpendicular with the keel. Then, you can glue the
stringers in place.
There are three basic stringer sizes to install. Most stringers are 1/8”
square basswood (part 6). Some stringers such as at the upper cor-
ners of the hull (the gunwale) and hatch edges are 1/8” x 1/4” bass-
wood (part 7), and the lower corners of the hull 1/4” square bass-
wood (part 8). The slots in the frames really tell you the size to
install.
Figure 3-1 and 3-2 and the plans illustrate the layout of the
stringers.
The frames are all cut square by the laser machine. However, the
hull sides and bottom are curved. Consequently, the slots in the
frames and the frame edges must be beveled to the angle of the hull
form (Figure 3-3). Bevel the bottom of the slots first so the stringers
will lay flat in the slots. Then bevel the edges of the frames to the
hull contours. After all stringers are installed, use a sanding block
and sand the stringers themselves to the hull contour (Figure 3-4).
At the end of this stage, step back and take a look at the entire
framework of the hull. You should have a rigid skeleton with all
frames perpendicular to the center keel, and all stringers shaped to
the hull contour. Since you will be planking over this framework
later, it is essential that the framework is accurate. Make any correc-
tions at this time.
STAGE 3
STAGE 2
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