SEAM SEALING
The seams of your tent have been waterproof taped on all exposed seams.
However, it is impossible to factory-seal stitch lines around windows and
doors. For maximum weatherproof performance, we suggest you treat
these seams with a quality after-market polyurethane sealer such as
McNett Seam Grip
®
. It is not necessary to apply the sealer to the factory-
sealed seams.
Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling sealant vapours. For
complete sealing, evenly apply only the minimum required amount of
sealant into needle holes, thread, and fabric joints. Allow to dry and cure
overnight. Before packing the tent for the first time, dust newly sealed
areas with talcum powder or spray them with 303
TM
Protectant; freshly
cured sealer can bond to itself even when dry. You may need to reapply
seam sealer to high-wear areas if you use your tent frequently.
SItE prEpArAtION
Remove sharp objects that might puncture the tent floor.
A ground sheet beneath the tent is not necessary for waterproofness, but
it will reduce long-term wear on the tent floor. A ground sheet should be
cut or folded smaller than the tent floor to prevent water pooling between
the floor and the ground sheet.
SEt-Up
A note about shock-corded poles
Shockcord (bungee cord) is meant to keep pole sections in the proper
order—not as an automatic assembly mechanism for poles. Do not hold
one section while whipping the rest of the pole back and forth, or toss the
poles into the air; either procedure excessively stresses the pole joints and
shockcord. Fit poles together section by section, making sure that each
piece slides completely into the next. Forcing an improperly assembled
pole into place can damage the pole and/or the tent body and fly.
Assembling the tent
1
Assemble all poles carefully, as described in the previous paragraph. You
will have four poles: two equal-length angled ones, one shorter angled
one, and one straight one.
Summary of Contents for Funhouse 4
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