8
T3 tends to work best set a little below full up. When it’s all the way up the Phaser tends to “pop” a
little at the height of its frequency sweep. So, T3 will be set just below where this happens.
T1-T3 will also come in handy if you want to try a different optical effect instead of the three projects I
designed for the Tapanatorator. It will let you adjust the LED for the best result on that particular
effect.
Jacks
D1, D2 and D3 are the individual outputs from the Tapanatorator that connect to the driven effects.
These outputs send the voltage modulation to the LEDs used in the driven optical effects. To connect
each output, you will need to use a jack for each. These must be isolated from the enclosure so you
will need to use plastic encased jacks, not metal ones.
You can use either a 1/8” jack and plug (links on page 3 of this doc) or you can use DC jacks. Either
method is fine but there are some caveats.
1/8” jacks – You’ll either need to find the appropriate 1/8” male two-conductor plug or make your own.
Making them is very easy. The only downside is that the plugs available are a bit on the larger side.
Instructions on making the plugs are shown below.
DC Jack – This is probably the easiest method. Simply use additional Lumberg style DC jacks for
connecting the controller to the effects. Then you can use any extra DC connector to make the
connection instead of having to make them from scratch. The caveat here is that you need to be sure
to clearly label (or remember) which jacks are power and which are for the Tapanatorator otherwise
you might plug them in the wrong place (although doing so temporarily is not likely to hurt anything).
Wiring 1/8” Jacks & Plugs
Summary of Contents for Tapanatorator
Page 4: ...4 Control Diagram...
Page 5: ...5 Wiring Guide...
Page 10: ...10 Prototype...
Page 12: ...12...