4
General guideline for components
Capacitors: All values under 1nF should be ceramic disks. From 1nF up to 1uF should be MKT
or SMF (metal film capacitors). For over 1uF use electrolyte caps 16V+ rated and watch out
for polarity!
C9
is also electrolyte.
Resistors: use 1% metal film for the best results.
Socket all IC’s and transistors. This way you can easily mod them or replace them if they
brake.
General building tips
Soldering this board can be moderately complicated for some people since the solder pads can be
very close together. Use a magnifying glass to make the job more easy.
Start by soldering the resistors and diodes. Next, solder the sockets for the IC’s and transistors. For
the transistors you can buy a 20 pin SIL socket and cut of the pins you need. IC1 needs a 16 pin DIL
socket and IC2 needs a 14 pin DIL socket. If you want to socket D6 (see MODS below) than solder the
socket now. Next you can solder the MKT capacitors and finish by soldering the electrolyte
capacitors. Note that C8 and C11 fit both MKT as well as electrolyte but watch the polarity! If you
look at the picture on page 3, the positive side is marked with a + and the hole above of the + is also
positive. Only the top most hole for both C8 and C11 are negative (-). Now you can place the IC’s and
transistors. The white triangle on the IC’s point to where pin 1 of the IC should be inserted.
Note: Q1 and Q2 are both displayed misprinted on the PCB. Rotate both transistors 180 degrees to
correctly place them.
Besides the components mentioned in the table on the first page, you will need:
2 input jacks. 2 mono jacks if you are not going to use a battery clip, only 9V adapter, or 1
mono (for output) and 1 stereo jack (for input) if you will be using a battery clip.
3PDT footswitch (9 pins) and a LED to build in your casing (see page 5).
2,1mm DC jack (isolated).
9v battery clip (optional).
22 gage stranded hook-up wire
Hammond 1590BB case (or similar) in your favourite colour.
