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Trial sewing, Thread tension

Sewing test

After threading make a trail run. Always use a double layer of 
fabric to properly check the stitch formation and thread ten-
sion.
•  Switch the machine on (“I”).
•  Set all tensions to 4.
• Stitch length, differential, cutting width (see adjustment & 

settings).

•  Lower the upper knife.
•  Lower the presser foot.
•  Raise the front of the presser foot slightly with your thumb 

and position the fabric under the foot just up to the knife. 
Sew.

• At the end of the seam continue sewing a 8cm (3”) long 

thread chain (A). Cut threads.

•  When using thread such as cordonet or similar, pull out the 

thread chain (B) carefully by hand as it might catch in the 
stitch plate.

Check your trial run

1. Upper looper thread (blue).
2. Lower looper thread (red).
3. Right- hand needle thread (green).
4. Left- hand needle thread (yellow).
Perfect stitch formation is when both looper threads meet at 
the fabric edge. The needle threads form straight stitches for 
a stretchy and durable seam.

18

Summary of Contents for MO-204D

Page 1: ...erlock Sewing Machine INSTRUCTION MANUAL MO 214D 204D IMPORTANT Read all safety regulations carefully and under stand them before using your sewing machine Retain this instruction manual for future reference MO 204D MO 214D EN ...

Page 2: ...may deflect the needle causing it to break 9 Do not carry out sewing with a marking pin stuck in the material since doing so can cause knife needle breakage In addition do not attempt to cut anything other than fabric and thread with the upper lower knives 10 Switch the sewing machine off O when making any adjustments in the needle area such as threading needle changing needle threading looper or ...

Page 3: ...ong time After you have read the Instruction Manual please be sure to keep it together with the warranty so that you can read it whenever necessary To use the sewing machine safely Marks and pictographs included in the Instruction Manual and shown on the sewing machine are used so as to ensure safe operation of the sewing machine and to prevent possible risk of injury to the user and other people ...

Page 4: ...a heavy weight material e g denim is sewn with a thin needle 11 or higher the needle can break result ing in an unexpected personal injury Other precautions Do not put the sewing machine under the direct sunlight or in a humid place Be aware that the following state can take place since the sewing machine incorporates semi con ductor electronic parts and precise electronic circuits The operating t...

Page 5: ...Upper and lower looper 13 15 Right and left needles 16 17 Trial sewing Sewing test 18 Thread tension 19 Adjusting tensions 19 Contents Adjustments and settings Stitch length 20 Cutting width 20 Differential feed 21 Gathering 22 Upper looper converter 23 Roll hemming 23 Presser foot pressure 24 Practical sewing Thread breakage 24 Unpicking seams 24 Stitch chart 25 How to use the blind stitch presse...

Page 6: ...oper thread tension lever 10 Lower looper thread tension lever 11 Retractable support rod 12 Thread guide support 13 Open thread guide 14 Spool holder pin 15 Foam pad 16 Anti vibration cone 17 Thread stand 18 Stitch length adjustment dial MO 214D 19 Differential feed adjustment dial MO 214D 20 Handwheel 21 Rear cover 22 Machine socket 23 Power Light switch 24 Differential feed adjustment knob MO 2...

Page 7: ...h adjustment knob MO 204D 3 Differential feed adjustment knob MO 204D Accessories 1 Electronic foot control 2 Upper looper converter 3 Spool caps 4 Tweezers 5 Cleaning brush Needle inserter 6 Nets 7 Looper threader 8 Needle set 130 705H 9 Small screwdriver 10 Oiler 11 Accessory bag 12 Dust cover 13 Blind stitch presser foot 14 Waste collector Optional for MO 204D Only for MO 204D 6 1 2 5 4 3 Cauti...

Page 8: ...d by increasing or decreasing the pressure on the foot control Thread stand Push the support rod firmly into the socket on the back of the ma chine Raise the support rod C fully turning slightly until the po sition catches engage Position the thread guide D on the thread stand so that the arrow is to the front CAUTION Be sure to turn OFF the power switch before plugging unplug ging the controller ...

Page 9: ...e power light switch is conveniently placed on the handwheel side of the machine in front of the socket O Off I On with light Two step presser foot To raise the presser foot lift the presser foot lever on the rear of the machine until it engages A It can be raised again to the maximum height and held in this position to provide more space between presser foot and stitch plate B Note When the press...

Page 10: ...r foot will engage automatically Looper cover To open the looper cover press the indent to the right with your thumb and lower the cover towards you To close push it up and press lightly to the right The cover engages automatically CAUTION Moving parts to reduce the risk of injury switch ma chine off O Before servicing and when opening looper cover and cloth plate Close before using Cloth plate co...

Page 11: ...Raising the upper knife Switch the machine off Power switch to 0 Disconnect machine from electricity supply Turn the handwheel towards you until needles are fully raised Open the looper cover Press the upper knife holder E to the right Turn the knob clockwise F until the knife engages into position as illustrated G 10 ...

Page 12: ...etscrews and remove the needles B Place the right hand needle flat side towards the back into the hole of the needle inserter and insert the needle as far as possible into the needle clamp Tighten the setscrew lightly and then insert the lefthand needle in the same way and tighten both setscrews C Using the machine Needle and machine Your overlock machine is equipped with needle system 130 705 H h...

Page 13: ... fully raised Raise the upper knife Raise the presser foot The tension is automatically released Thread the machine carefully and in the correct sequence Invaluable threading aids simplify threading Colored threading illustration Color coded thread path on the machine Threading accessories First thread guide on the Machine Take the thread with both hands and lay it in the groove Press the thread d...

Page 14: ... the groove Press the thread down into the 1st guide on the machine until it clicks into place 3 Slip the thread through the groove 4 5 6 7 8 Thread the guides blue markings 9 Turn the handwheel until the upper looper is in the po sition as illustrated Thread the looper eye 10 Lift the presser foot place thread underneath and lower the presser foot Note Do not thread the upper looper when sewing w...

Page 15: ...Turn the handwheel to bring the looper to its left most position Make a thread loop with your right hand Use the looper threader to catch the thread loop from the left and insert the loop from back to front into the slit on the lower looper Pull and hold the thread to the right Turn the handwheel to bring the looper to the right side 9 Thread the lower looper eye 10 Place the thread under the pres...

Page 16: ... it clicks into place 3 Slip the thread through the groove 4 5 6 Thread the guides 7 Press the lever of the auto threader down 8 9 Thread the guide and then the slit on the threader Push the auto threader lever up to return it to its normal position 10 Thread the lower looper eye and place the thread un derneath the presser foot Note If the lower looper has to be re threaded cut both needle thread...

Page 17: ...achine until it clicks into place 3 Slip the thread through the groove 4 5 Take the thread under the thread guide plate to the left and through the take up 6 Thread the guide 7 Thread the guide on the needle clamp 8 Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are fully raised Thread the right hand needle front to back 9 Place the thread under the presser foot Note If the lower looper has to b...

Page 18: ...thread through the groove 4 5 Take the thread under the thread guide plate to the left and through the take up 6 Thread the guide 7 Thread the guide on the needle clamp 8 Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are fully raised Thread the left hand needle front to back 9 Place the thread under the presser foot When threading is complete lower the upper knife close the looper cover and clo...

Page 19: ...our thumb and position the fabric under the foot just up to the knife Sew At the end of the seam continue sewing a 8cm 3 long thread chain A Cut threads When using thread such as cordonet or similar pull out the thread chain B carefully by hand as it might catch in the stitch plate Check your trial run 1 Upper looper thread blue 2 Lower looper thread red 3 Right hand needle thread green 4 Left han...

Page 20: ... one number then test sew again and check the result The loops are formed on the underside Tighten the upper looper thread tension blue or loosen the lower looper thread tension red A The loops are formed on the upper side Tighten the lower looper thread tension red or loosen the upper looper thread tension blue B The right hand needle thread forms loops on the underside Tighten the right hand nee...

Page 21: ... from 1 4 mm Most overlock work is done with a basic setting of 2 3 mm Cutting width Switch the machine off Power switch to 0 Open the cloth plate Raise presser foot Push upper knife to the right and turn cutting width dial in the direc tion desired Close cloth plate cover and lower presser foot Cutting width 1 3 5 mm seam width 2 4 6 mm seam width 3 5 7 mm seam width The position of the lower kni...

Page 22: ...its or stretch fabrics The distance travelled by the front feed dog should be greater than that of the rear feed dog The front feed dog therefore feeds an amount of fabric which the rear feed dog can take up behind the needle without stretching the fabric Pucker free seams in nylon or closely woven fabrics The distance travelled by the rear feed dog should be greater than that of the front feed do...

Page 23: ...e seams B Cotton silk synthetic jersey sweatshirt fabrics and fine knits N Normal feed C Woven fabrics 0 7 No puckering D Fine nylon jersey closely woven fabrics lining fabric satin poplin Gathering Using the differential feed a single layer of fabric can be gathered be fore sewing it to a garment For example sleeve heads and lower edges yokes lace edging or frills Adjustment Stitch 4 thread overl...

Page 24: ...t diverts the lower looper thread so that loops are formed round the edge of the fabric Roll hemming Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are fully raised For roll hemming pull the selection lever to the front marking on the stitch plate furthest from the presser foot C For overlocking push the selection lever forwards to the rear marking on the stitch plate nearest the presser foot D ...

Page 25: ...ss pressure for lightweight or sheer fabrics and knits C Settings and practical sewing Thread breakage during sewing Sew off immediately at an angle and remove the work Re thread If the lower looper thread has broken cut off both needle threads at the nee dles and remove the thread First thread the looper then the needles Start sewing again about 2 3 cm in front of where the thread broke Unpicking...

Page 26: ... 2 Differential N 1 5 knits 0 7 N wovens 3 Thread narrow seam 1 5 mm right needle Right needle green 3 5 Upper looper blue 3 5 Lower looper red 3 5 Stitch length 1 1 8 Cutting width 1 1 5 Differential N 0 7 Stitch lever roll hem 3 Thread roll hem 1 5 mm right needle Right needle green 3 5 Upper looper blue 3 5 Lower looper red 7 9 Stitch length 1 1 8 Cutting width 1 1 5 Differential N 0 7 Stitch l...

Page 27: ...ser foot holder Then lower the presser foot lifting lever The blind stitch presser foot will be automatically mounted to the holder by lowering the lever Presser foot holder A B 2 Turn the stitch length adjustment dial to 4 Marking Stitch length adjustment dial 3 Fold the material and put it under the presser foot Place the material under the presser foot with its wrong side faced upward Fabric wr...

Page 28: ...m electricity supply During sewing dust and fluff collect in and on the machine This should be removed regularly Your overlock machine requires very little lubrication Now and then lubri cate only the points illustrated Please refer to safety instructions Precautions to be taken when handling oil In the event the oil gets in the eye or adheres on skin immediately wash it off in order to prevent ir...

Page 29: ...ic gently with both hands 11 11 Skipped stitches Needles are bent or blunt Wrong needles used Presser foot pressure is too low Replace the needles Use needle system 130 705H Increase presser foot pressure 11 11 24 Poor stitch for mation Threads are not correctly between the tension discs Thread has got caught Machine is threaded incorrectly Check if thread is lying between tension discs Raise the ...

Page 30: ...O 214D 3 5 mm 2 3 thread overlock 5 7 mm 4 thread overlock 3 thread super stretch MO 204D 3 5 mm 3 thread overlock 5 7 mm 4 thread overlock Stitch length 1 4 mm Differential feed No waving or fluting in knits N 2 No puckering 0 7 N Presser foot lift 5 mm Handwheel Rotates forwards Sewing speed Up to 1500 sti min Weight 7 kg Dimensions 315 W 290 D 290 H mm Foot control model nr YC 482 USA and Canad...

Page 31: ...er looper converter Optional for MO 204D Optional Accessories Contact your local dealer Beading presser foot Elasticator Gathering presser foot Cording presser foot Piping presser foot 13 13 13 13 13 13 30 ...

Page 32: ...Copyright C 2018 JUKI CORPORATION All rights reserved throughout the world 2 11 1 TSURUMAKI TAMA SHI TOKYO 206 8551 JAPAN PHONE 81 42 357 2341 FAX 81 42 357 2379 001118 40214150 1 ...

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