J/Boats J/88, Owner'S Manual

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J88 OWNER MANUAL 53
4) Aluminum spars - are subject to corrosion and fittings should be routinely inspected and replaced
when necessary. Particular problem areas over time can be fasteners around boom vang, boom and
mast ends, and gooseneck attachment brackets.
5) Booms - often have a shorter life than masts, particularly on race boats that do a lot of windward-
leeward buoy racing in breezy conditions. In some class boats it is common practice to pull the boom
vang hard going upwind (vang-sheeting) and then release the boom vang several inches going
downwind. However if one bears away without first releasing the boom vang (from its vang-sheeted
position) then most booms will bend under this load. Repeated occurrences will shorten the life of
the boom and could cause breakage.
6) Rig cutting tool - Every sailboat should carry aboard a tool that is capable of cutting through
standing rigging quickly. When a mast does break, the portion that is in the water can easily ram a
hole and potentially sink a boat. You may not have time to unwrap the rigging tape and pull clevis
pins at all the attachment points. The top of the line cutters are hydraulic, which can be used on wire
or rod rigging. For small one designs (ex…J22, J24 & J80), a good hacksaw should be carried at a
minimum.
OTHER STRUCTURE
1) Bulkhead tabbing - the primary structural bulkheads of the boat are tabbed both to the hull and to
the deck. This tabbing (or fiberglass tape) should be inspected annually and, especially, after any
groundings or excessive exposure to “hard trailering”. If there is any evidence of gelcoat cracking or
actual tabbing visibly loose or beginning to peel, ensure that a marine surveyor inspects the boat and
recommends adequate remedies to correct potential damage.
2) Hull-to-deck joint - all modern J/Boats are built with a “glued” PLEXUS (2-part elastomer glue) hull
to deck joint. It is an ISO/ABS approved method for hull-to-deck bonding. This joint should be
inspected at least annually and, in particular, if any leaking is noticed inside the hull. Sometimes the
best check is to use a “non-permanent dye” in water to squeeze into the hull/deck joint and look for
“runs” inside the hull. If any leaking is observed, have the hull to deck joint surveyed and have the
surveyor make recommendations for adequate remedies to correct potential damage.
3) Chainplate fittings - Both port and starboard chainplates and the bow and stern chainplates should
be checked at least annually. Look for leaks where they intersect the deck.
4) Bow sprit system - the sprit system is a combination of a carbon tube, pulley system and an integral
bulkhead/ bow support. The system can easily be damaged, particularly when struck laterally or
vertically at the end of the pole with any force (e.g. when rounding marks hitting sterns, hitting metal
buoys, or burying the bow in steep seas under full force of the asymmetric spinnaker too many
times). Regularly inspect the sprit for excessive wear where the sprit intersects the outer bearing at
full extension.