J/70 Owner Guide
Page
© Copyright 2013, J Boats, Inc. All Rights Reserved
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used on wire or rod rigging. For small one designs (ex…J22, J70, J24 & J80), a good hacksaw
should be carried at a minimum.
OTHER STRUCTURE
1)
Bulkhead tabbing -‐
the primary structural bulkheads of the boat are tabbed or glued both to the
hull and to the deck. This tabbing/glue (or fiberglass tape) should be inspected annually and,
especially, after any groundings or excessive exposure to “hard trailering”. If there is any
evidence of gelcoat cracking or actual tabbing or glue flanges visibly loose or beginning to peel,
ensure that a marine surveyor inspects the boat and recommends adequate remedies to correct
potential damage.
2)
Hull-‐to-‐deck joint
-‐ all modern J/Boats are built with a “glued” PLEXUS (2-‐part glue) hull to
deck joint. It is an ISO/ABS approved method for hull-‐to-‐deck bonding. This joint should be
inspected at least annually and, in particular, if any leaking is noticed inside the hull. Sometimes
the best check is to use a “non-‐permanent dye” in water to squeeze into the hull/deck joint and
look for “runs” inside the hull. If any leaking is observed, have the hull to deck joint surveyed and
have the surveyor make recommendations for adequate remedies to correct potential damage.
3)
Chainplate fittings -‐
Both port and starboard chainplates and the bow and stern chainplates
should be checked at least annually. Look for leaks where they intersect the deck.
4)
Bow sprit system
-‐ the sprit system is a combination of a carbon tube, pulley system and an
integral bulkhead/housing support. The system can easily be damaged, particularly when struck
laterally or vertically at the end of the pole with any force (e.g. when rounding marks hitting
sterns, hitting metal buoys, or burying the bow in steep seas under full force of the asymmetric
spinnaker too many times). Regularly inspect the sprit for excessive wear where the sprit
intersects the outer bearing at full extension.
DECK HARDWARE
1)
Wire lifelines and lifeline fittings -‐
should be replaced at least every 10 years or at the first
sign of corrosion or damage to the wire strands, swages or turnbuckles. Many older boats have
white vinyl coated lifelines, which are no longer allowed by ORC Offshore regulations, as the
vinyl can disguise ongoing corrosion or damage to the wire. These should be replaced using
appropriate wire type and diameter immediately. Boats equipped with soft Dyneema or Spectra
lifelines should be inspected more frequently for wear at all stanchions and fittings.
2)
Sealants
-‐ used for deck hardware can last anywhere from 3 -‐10 years depending on the stress
exerted on the hardware. If most of your hardware is still original, you should consider backing
off the fasteners and rebedding with Sikaflex or other suitable marine sealant. Jib and genoa
tracks are usually the first areas to start to leak over time. Stanchion set screws should be re-‐
inspected and replaced when necessary.
ADDITIONAL REMARKS
There are few industry guidelines regarding pro-‐active maintenance, inspection and periodic
replacement of key components on aging composite boats. Many owners rely on reminders from their
boatyards for upgrades or required maintenance. For trailerable one-‐designs, it’s mostly up to the owner
