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16572000_ed2
first, through the assembled Air Connection Nut.
Using a wrench thread the complete Air Connection assembly (11,
12, 13, 14) into the Back Head.
Install the Blow Tube Gasket (18) onto the shaft of the Blow Tube
(20) and slide it up the length of the shaft until it seats against the
flared head of the Blow Tube.
Install the Tube Gland Gasket (17) over the threads of the Tube
Gland (16) against the head of the Gland.
Insert the headed end of the Blow Tube into the Tube Gland and
then insert and thread the assembly into the top of the Backhead.
Use a wrench to tighten the Gland in the Backhead.
Insert the two Side Rods (66) through the corresponding holes in
the Back Head
Slide a Handle Bolt Washer (93) and one Handle Grip (94) onto the
Handle Bolt (91). Insert the Bolt into the Back Head and install the
remaining Handle Grip and Washer on the opposite side of the
Back Head. Secure the Bolt and Handle in position by threading
the Handle Bolt Nut (92) onto the Bolt and tightening it.
Assembly of the Fronthead
If the Chuck Bushing (59) was removed, stand the large end of the
Chuck Driver (58) on the table of a hydraulic press and press the
replacement Chuck Bushing into the Driver. The Chuck Bushing
should be flush with the end of the Chuck driver when finished.
NOTICE
The thread in the following step is a left-hand thread. Rotate the
Nut counterclockwise to install it.
2. Using the spline end of an old Piston (57), thread the Sleeve Nut
(61) into the Chuck Driver (58). Hand tight is sufficient because
operating the tool will naturally tighten the Nut.
3. Clamp the Front Head (67) vertically in a vise with the cylinder
end upward.
4. If the Front Head Bushings (70) need to be replaced, tap the
new ones in with a hand hammer (Make sure that the milled flat
section of the Bushing matches that of the Front Head and the
compression split is pointing towards the Front Head).
5. Slide the Steel Retainer (68) over the Steel Retainer Pin (72). Cup
the Steel Retainer Pin on each end with the mating ends of the
Steel Retainer Bolts (74), grasp this whole assembly and insert the
Steel Retainer bolts into the Front Head (67).
6. Slide the Steel Retainer Springs (73) over the Bolts and thread the
Retainer Bolt Nuts (75) on the Bolts. Thread the Nuts down far
enough to expose the recessed groove for the Retainer Bolt Lock
Clips (76).
7. Line up the Retainer Bolt Lock Clip the groove in the Bolt. With
the help of a small open end wrench cup the end of the Retainer
Bolt Lock Clip and tap the wrench end with a hammer until the
Clip seats into the groove.
8. Loosen the Retainer Bolt Nuts (75) so that the Retainer Bolt Lock
Clip seats into the corresponding counter-bore in the top of the
Nut.
9. Lubricate the assembled Chuck Driver and insert into the Front
Head.
Assembly of the Valve Chest
Insert the Automatic Valve (48) into the Valve Chest (49) it should
be able to move in and out of the Valve Chest freely.
Mate the Valve Chest Cover (46) to the Valve Chest making sure
that the Valve Dowel Pin slot in both parts lines up.
Assembly of the Cylinder
If the Front Washer Bushing (43) was removed, press a new
Bushing into the hub end of the Front Washer (44) until it seats
completely in the Front Washer.
Align the Side Rod notches on the Front Washer with those on
the Cylinder (37) making sure that the porting holes of the Front
Washer line up with those on the Cylinder.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
1.
1.
2.
1.
2.
NOTICE
The thread in the following step is a left-hand thread. Rotate the
Nut counterclockwise to install it.
3. Using the Rifle Bar (51), thread the Rifle Nut (56) into the Piston
(57) in a counterclockwise motion. Hand tight is sufficient as
operating the tool will naturally tighten the Nut.
4. Insert the Piston (57), spline end first, into the Cylinder (37)
until the spline can be grasped. Pull the Piston into the Cylinder
assembly until the large diameter of the Piston seats on the Front
Washer Bushing.
5. Lay the Cylinder down horizontally on a work bench with the
Valve Dowel slot at the top. Using the Valve Dowel Pin (50) as a
guide, carefully slide the Valve assembly and Valve Dowel Pin into
the Cylinder (a little bit of grease may be applied to the slot on
the Valve assembly to keep the Valve Dowel in place).
6. Using the Valve Dowel Pin as a guide, slide the Ratchet Ring (55)
into the Cylinder. When properly seated the Ratchet Ring should
stick out above the Cylinder about 3/8” (9.5mm).
7. Assemble the Rifle Bar (51) by inserting the Pawl Spring (54)
followed by the Pawl Plunger (53) into the corresponding hole
on the Rifle Bar. With your finger, depress the plunger and Spring
and slide the Rotation Pawl (52) in to it’s mating key-way. The
Plunger assembly should put enough tension on the Pawls to
keep them in a sprung position.
8. With your hand, grasp the Rifle Bar, squeezing the Pawls in
against the Pawl Springs and insert the rifle bar spline end first
into the Cylinder carefully nesting the Pawls into the Ratchet
Ring.
9. Reinsert the Blowing Connection (39) (short side in the Cylinder,
long side up).
Assembly of the Tool
Lay the assembled Back Head (1) horizontally on a clean
workbench and insert the side rods.
Slide the assembled Cylinder over the Blow Tube (20) of the Back
Head using the Side Rods to line the two sections up. The throttle
valve, the exhaust port, and the Steel retainer must be on the
same side.
While holding the Front Head up, carefully turn the Piston in the
assembled Front Head until it mates with the Rifle Bar. Slide the
assembled Front Head on to the Cylinder using the Side Rods as a
guide until this seats against the Front Washer.
CAUTION
The Side Rods must be tight and under equal tension. Loose or
unequal Side Rod tension will cause misalignment of internal
parts and will promote breakdown of the tool. Alternately
tighten the Side Rod Nuts a little at a time until they are between
30 and 35 ft-lb. (40.7 and 47.5 Nm) torque.
4. Thread the Side Rod Nuts (65) on the Side Rods (66) until hand
tight. With a wrench, tighten the Nuts alternately and evenly to
an equal torque
(30-35 ft-lb.) to avoid one sided over-tightening.
Performance Testing
A reconditioned Jackhamer must be tested before it is sent back
to the job. Before connecting the air hose, make certain the air line
lubricator is filled with the proper grade of Ingersoll-Rand Rock Drill
Oil. Pour a small amount of Rock Drill Oil directly into the air inlet
of the tool for initial lubrication. Start the Jackhamer with little air
pressure and the piston reciprocating smoothly. Let the Jackhamer
run-in slowly at reduced pressure long enough to determine that it is
in good working order. If the Jackhamer stalls, immediately turn off
the air supply. Stalling indicates binding due to tight fits or unevenly
tightened Side Rods. Check the rod tension first. Slowly start the
Jackhamer again. If erratic operation or stalling persists, disassemble
the Jackhamer and check for binding parts. After a short period of
operation, a definite rhythm should develop and an even exhaust
note will be heard. The Jackhamer may become warm, but should
1.
2.
3.
Summary of Contents for Jackhamer JRD50
Page 7: ...Notes...
