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Notes on the IC-2KL 10/12m modification

 

 
The first thing you do in the ICOM modification is removing the Low Pass Filter unit from 
the 2KL. I would recommend taking a picture of the manner in which the 12 or more cables 
are plugged into that unit. I didn't think of that until just now, but I did mark each 
cable so it would go back in the right spot. 
 
The first three items to be removed from the LPF board are (you guessed it) L31, C57 and 
C58. These items are only in the A (American) version. The E (European) version has 10 
Meters installed. I have a feeling that their "cute" little stunt of removing the 10 
Meter band when the FCC passed that silly rule is a little on the weak side. 
 
The next two items to come out are "jumpers". One is underneath the board and if you 
study their print very closely, you will find it. The second jumper is actually a solder 
bridge at one side of L1. The board is screened L1 and in the A unit, L31 is mounted 
there. 
 
I don't recommend this modification to everyone. The board is flow soldered, and all the 
holes that are going to be used (about 50 them) for new components are soldered over. It 
would have been a messy job with solder wick or a manual de-soldering tool. Fortunately, 
I have a $600 automatic solder sucker and that let me suck out all the holes in less than 
minute. By hand, it would have taken 30 minutes. As it was, I spent about 4.5 hours doing 
the modification. 
 
All the parts, except jumper wires and wire insulation, are included in the kit. I 
installed the little stuff first and left the coils and relays to last. If I had 
installed the items as they were listed, it would have added an hour to the mod time.  
 
For some reason, they had a cap installed in the unit, that was used only for a jumper. 
One lead was in a hole of a land that went to nothing, and the other lead tied its land 
to another circuit. So when you take that jumper out, take that lonesome cap with it. 
 
What it amounts to is that jumpers A and B are removed, and jumpers C, D, E and F are 
installed. Jumpers C and F are under the board and it is not readily apparent where they 
are really suppose to be installed. But looking at the bottom of the board, they are just 
continuations of buss bars extending across the board. 
 
The parts lists indicates two wires (N and G) are to be installed. The wire is not 
furnished. 
 
Wire N goes from the upper right "N" hole to the lower right "N" hole. 
 
Wire "G" goes from L16 (which is a choke that was installed in the mod sequence) to a "G" 
hole in the upper right corner of the board, right next to where the N wire went to a "N" 
hole. The L16 choke is outside of the shielded compartment, and the "G" hole will be 
found just to the right of L16, inside the shielded compartment. 
 
The last part of the mod is to cut a trace on the LED Display board. This should be done 
before the LPF unit is reinstalled in the 2KL. The real intent is to disconnect a diode 
(D8) that is mounted on the other side of the board. I will never understand why they 
didn't put the D8 diode (which is only used in the A version) on the accessible side of 
the board. There is no# law against components on both sides of a board. I do it all the 
time, particularly when components are too close to each other. 
 
Anyway, that trace has to be cut, and an X-acto knife is as good a way as any. 
 
This completes the mod. The front panel switch is not changed out, so l0-Meters can only 
be selected by remote control from the Xcvr, and there is no LED on the front panel to 
indicate that the 2KL automatically switched to 10 Meters. 

Summary of Contents for 2KL

Page 1: ...is is where the 10 meter modification goes 9 Remove 3 screws holding back cover plate Remove plate cover 10 We need to remove some parts that are in the way and some jumpers before installing our parts so refer to Fig 1 and remove in the following order so none are missed 1 Cap on component side 2 Cap on component side silk screening may say C4 3 Coil on component side silk screen may say L1 4 Jum...

Page 2: ...order listed Remember to keep components flush to the board leads snipped and solder cleanly 1 RL1 RL2 location is obvious 2 Two jumpers insulated on foil side One of them may already be installed Use the other jumper component supplied cut leads off and use them as jumpers Use the supplied insulation and solder these jumpers in the same manner as the other ones on the board Neat Clean 3 L15 L16 a...

Page 3: ...it trace so remove the 2 screws on the bottom front one on each side 23 With the unit facing you fold front panel down towards you See two circuit boards 8446 B447A Notice a circuit board with wires soldered to it 8447A See a PURPLE wire soldered to the board follow this trace until you come to the first connection off the trace with a knife remove cut or sever this connection point from this trac...

Page 4: ...some reason they had a cap installed in the unit that was used only for a jumper One lead was in a hole of a land that went to nothing and the other lead tied its land to another circuit So when you take that jumper out take that lonesome cap with it What it amounts to is that jumpers A and B are removed and jumpers C D E and F are installed Jumpers C and F are under the board and it is not readil...

Page 5: ...LED available from Radio Shack The green matches the ICOM green perfectly The little LED is inserted into the D7 which is shown on the pictorial as D7 E with the cathode toward the edge of the board The short lead is the cathode Now when the exciter is switched to either 24 or 28 MHz the little green LED lights up if the 2KL is in the REMOTE position When it is off you can t even tell that there i...

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