figure 1.3 - stock Harness
and Amplifier’s Harnesses
Passing from fairing To Just In
front of Tank (Arrow A). Cable
Tying the 2 Amp Harnesses To
The Main Bike Harness Just
In front of The Tank (Arrow
B) Allows The Amp Harnesses
To go Up Towards The Tank’s
Chrome Console easier And
Makes for a Cleaner Install.
A
B
B
A
6
Routing thE poWER And REAR hARnESS
Step #1: The power/ground and rear harness will pass through the inner fairing
where the main wire harness passes through on the brake side of the
bike. If your comfortable removing and re-installing the fuel tank, the
wires can go in the factory wire “chase”. Alternatively, you can loosen
the tank’s “chrome console” and run wires up and over the gas tank, but
under the tank’s chrome console. There is a provision on the front of the
tank console for wires to pass. NOTE: During some routine bike
services, the fuel tank will be removed. Having the wires going up
and over the tank could be an inconvenience for the technician.
• The rear harness is the right length so that its two large ends can sit on
the middle of the back fender, just behind the threaded insert for the
bolt that holds the back of the seat in place.
Step #2: Just behind the threaded insert that holds the seat bolt on the back fender,
you will see a large factory wire plug. One side of the plug has wires that
go to each rear speaker pod. Separate this large factory plug. One plug
from the Wild Boar rear harness will plug into each side of the factory
plug just separated. They will only go together one way.
Step #3: Also on our rear harness, in the area near the battery, you will see a cut
in the sheathing with wires coming out that end in a 4 pin plug. In the
same area, you will see a factory connector on the bike with light blue/
orange, light blue/gray, light blue, and light blue/black wires. Plug the
connector on our rear harness in to the described four pin connector on
the bike.
At this point, all audio connections for this system are made.
