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Installation
The success of any car stereo system relies on several factors, such as the system design, execution of the installation, and system setup. This section is
intended to assist the installer by offering several tips and hints about good installation practice. Please remember that any system is only as good as its
weakest link.
Design
Determine the system format, e.g., single amplifier, active, front/rear and so on. Then choose the amplifier power points to according to personal taste. Please remember
that higher power systems are not necessarily useful purely for high sound pressure levels, but also to establish a headroom capability, to reproduce musical peaks cleanly
without distortion. Lower power amplifiers will clip earlier than their more powerful cousins, and cause loudspeaker failure when overdrive, due to the harmonics generated
by a clipped signal, thus overheating voice coils.
Choose loudspeaker and amplifier mounting locations. Loudspeaker location is always a matter of compromise between space and sound stage imaging. Amplifiers
should be mounted with the fins running vertically for best convection cooling, to minimize overheating.
Purchase the best quality RCA cables you can afford, for reliability and less engine noise interference in the audio system.
General:
Mount the amplifier/s in the chosen location.
Run the wiring so that RCA cables are at least 18“ away from power and speaker cables. Keep RCA cables away from electrical devices in the vehicle that can cause
electrical noise, such as fuel pumps.
Power and ground connections:
Use a sufficient gauge power cable, at least 4 gauge per class A/B and 0 gauge per class D amplifier. In a multi amplifier system, it is advisable to mount a large enough fuse
right at the battery, and run a 12 volt power cable to a fused distribution block near the amplifiers. It is then a simple matter to connect the +12 volt terminal of each
amplifier to the distribution block.
Ground each amplifier with as short a ground lead, again at least 4 gauge per class A/B and 0 gauge per class D amplifier, directly to the vehicle chassis. Use a ground
distribution block, if you wish, but it is extremely important to keep the main ground lead from this distribution block to the chassis as short as possible, not more than 12“.
The ground connection integrity to the chassis is very important, and the best way to achieve a good, solid electrical and mechanical contact is to use a large round crimp
lug, crimped and soldered to the ground cable. The next step is to scrape the paint off the vehicle chassis, slightly larger than the ground lug, at the connection point. Drill a
clearance hole in the chassis, the same size as the lug hole, and use a bolt, spring washer and nut to securely fasten the ground lug. Use petroleum jelly to coat the bolt/lug
connection, to prevent oxidization with time.
TIP:
Use the same approach when installing head units, equalizers or any audio equipment for that matter - run short individual grounds from each piece directly to the
vehicle chassis, to minimize ground loops and system noise.
All power, ground and speaker connections should be crimped and soldered for reliability. Make sure that none of the cable insulation can chafe against exposed metal in
the vehicle, causing short circuits to the chassis.
Safe connection sequence:
After all cables are run, connect speaker wires to the speakers and amplifiers, then run and plug in RCA cables. Next, connect all power grounds and remote turn on leads.
Now connect all +12 volt cables to the amplifiers and distribution blocks and fuse holders. Finally, connect the main +12 volt cable to the battery, with the main fuse removed,
and we are almost ready to power up the system.
Power up the system:
The following procedure may seem like overkill, but there is nothing more frustrating than turning on a system for the first time, and immediately it does not work properly.
First, make sure the head unit is off, and turn all level controls to minimum (counter-clockwise), including the head unit volume control. Set all equalizers to 0 dB (no boost),
and all crossover frequency controls at approximate frequencies, as recommended by the loudspeaker manufacturer. Set all input selector and crossover switches as
required for the application.
Remove all amplifier fuses, and insert the main fuse at the battery. If the fuse does not blow, you can insert the fuse in one of the amplifiers, and we are ready to turn on the
system.
Turn the head unit on, insert a CD, or select a radio station, and increase the head unit volume control. If the system sounds fine, turn off the head unit, and install fuses in the
remaining amplifiers, one by one, till the complete system is powered up and functioning properly.
SYSTEM DESIGN AND INSTALLATION
