11
Trouble Shooting
System does not turn on
1.Check all fuses.
2.Check all connections.
3.Measure the +12 volt and remote turn on voltages at the amplifier terminals. If these are non existent or low,
take voltage measurements at fuse holders, distribution blocks, the head unit’s +12 volt and remote leads to
Localize the problem.
Noise problems
1.Check the speaker wiring
2.Speakers are damaged
No Signal at Channels
1.Set Balance and Fader from head unit on Zero-Position
2.Check wiring (Amplifier,Speakers)
3.Speakers are damaged
Hiss or white noise
1. Speakers are overload
2.High levels of white noise usually occurs when amplifier level controls are turned up too high - readjust according
to the procedures in section ”Setting up systems after installation for best performance”
3.Another major problem that can cause excessive hiss, is a noisy head unit - unplug the amplifier input RCA cables,
and if the hiss level reduces, the source unit is at fault.
No Stereo-Sound or Low Output
1.Check speaker wiring (-and+)
Amplifier Protect-Mode (red LED is illuminated)
1.Speaker cabels are shorted
2.Inadequate cooling - relocate or remount to provide better natural airflow over the fins.
Driving high power levels into low impedances - back off on the volume control, and/or make sure you are not loading the
amplifier with less than the recommended loudspeaker impedance.
3.Make sure that the battery voltage, as measured at the amplifier’s +12 volt and ground terminals, is 11 volts or more.
Caution!
In your amplifier there are protection circuits integrated. Short Circuit Protection engaged: The amplifier will turn off
and try to come back on immediately. The amplifier will cycle like this indefinitely, with "blips" of sound each time. If
this is the case, check your speakers and wiring for low impedance and short circuits. Thermal Protection engaged:
The amplifier will turn off and several minutes later will come back on. In this case, ensure that there is nothing
Blocking the normal convective airflow of the amplifier. No obstruction should be within 2" of the amplifier on all
sides.
NOTE
: Low battery voltage will cause the amplifier to run warmer and possibly damage the amplifier.
Electrical interference
The inside of an automobile is a very hostile electrical environment. The multitude of electrical systems, such as the ignition system,
alternator, fuel pumps, air conditioners to mention just a few, create radiated electrical fields, as well as noise on the +12 volt supply and
ground. Remember to isolate the problem - first unplug amplifier input RCAcables, if the noise is still present, check the speaker leads, if not,
plug the RCA’s back, and investigate the source driving the amplifier, one component at a time.
A ticking or whine that changes with engine RPM:
1.This problem could be caused by radiation pickup of RCA cables too near to a fuel pump or a distributor, for instance, - relocate cables.
2.Check that the head unit ground is connected straight to the vehicle chassis, and does not use factory wiring for ground.
3.Try to supply the head unit with a clean +12 volt supply directly from the b, instead of using a supply from the in dash
wiring/fusebox.
This type of noise can be more difficult to pinpoint, but is usually caused by some kind of instability, causing oscillations in the system.
A constant whine:
1.Check all connections, especially for good grounds.
2.Make sure that no speaker leads are shorting to exposed metal on the vehicle chassis.
3.RCA cables are notorious for their problematic nature, so check that these are good, in particular the shield connections.
