The power and signal pads on the PCB
conform to the FuzzDog Direct Connection
format, so can be paired with the appropriate
daughterboard for quick and easy offboard
wiring.
Be very careful when soldering the diodes,
LED and transistors. They’re very sensitive to
heat. You should use some kind of heat sink
(crocodile clip or reverse action tweezers) on
each leg as you solder them. Keep exposure to
heat to a minimum (under 2 seconds).
The striped leg (cathode) of the diodes go into
the square pads.
The long leg (anode) of the electrolytic
capacitors go into the square pads.
Due to the height of the rotary switch you’ll
need a small horizontal format trimmer for Q1
as shown on the main cover image. This will
give you plenty of clearance in the enclosure.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.
Pot mounts on the back side of the board. You can use vertical-mount pots or just wire up ‘normal’
ones. It’s a good idea to place the pots in their holes in the enclosure when you’re soldering them in
place on the PCB. That way you know they’re going to line up ok. Best way to do it is to solder a
single pin of each pot in place, then do a visual check to see that they’re all sitting at the same
height. If not, melt the joints and readjust any that are off.
Similarly, for the rotary switch it’s best to solder a single lug then check it for position before doing
the rest.
Align the switch so the round indicator tab
on the top side is in the same position as
this marking on the PCB >>>
You’ll have to snap off the indicator tab to mount the
switch flush in the box.
If your pots don’t have protective plastic covers you
should place a strip of thick card between them and
the board when soldering to keep them a good
distance from the pcb to avoid shorting other
components.
You should solder all other board-mounted
components before you solder the pots. Once they’re
in place you’ll have no access to much of the
underside of the board.
The bottom of your board should look like this >>>>>
PC
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