The power and signal pads on the PCB conform to the FuzzDog Direct Connection format, so can
be paired with the appropriate daughterboard for quick and easy offboard wiring.
Be very careful when soldering the diodes, LED and transistors. They’re very sensitive to heat. You
should use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip or reverse action tweezers) on each leg as you
solder them. Keep exposure to heat to a minimum (under 2 seconds).
The striped leg (cathode) of the diodes go into the square pads.
The long leg (anode) of the electrolytic capacitors go into the square pads.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.
Pot mounts on the back side of the board. You can use vertical-mount pots or just wire up ‘normal’
ones. It’s a good idea to place the pots in their holes in the enclosure when you’re soldering them in
place on the PCB. That way you know they’re going to line up ok. Best way to do it is to solder a
single pin of each pot in place, then do a visual check to see that they’re all sitting at the same
height. If not, melt the joints and readjust any that are off.
If your pots don’t have protective plastic covers
you should place a strip of thick card between
them and the board when soldering to keep
them a good distance from the pcb to avoid
shorting other components.
You should solder all other board-mounted
components before you solder the pots. Once
they’re in place you’ll have no access to much of
the underside of the board.
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