The power and signal pads on the PCB conform to
the FuzzDog Direct Connection format, so can be
paired with the appropriate daughterboard for
quick and easy offboard wiring.
Be very careful when soldering the diodes and
LEDs. They’re very sensitive to heat. You should
use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip or
reverse action tweezers) on each leg as you solder
them. Keep exposure to heat to a minimum (under
2 seconds). Best to use a socket for the chip.
The striped leg (cathode) of the diodes goes into
the square pad. Short leg of the LEDs goes into the
square pad.
The long leg (anode) of the electrolytic capacitors
go into the square pads.
The large 47u (C10) capacitor can lay flat over the
rotary switch once that’s in place. This will give you
plenty of clearance in the enclosure. You’ll still
have access to the pads for this once all the pots
etc are in place.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can
be mounted flush in the box.
Align the switch so the round locator tab
on the top side is in the same postion
as the marking on the board >>>
You’ll have to snap this off to mount the switch
flush in the enclosure.
Pots mount on the back side of the board. You can
use vertical-mount pots or just wire up ‘normal’
ones. As the rotary switch is quite deep you’ll have
to line the pots up with it once its in place. Solder
the switch in before the pots. Now place your pots
in the board and align them so they’re at the same
level as the switch. In the case of the switch
supplied with the kits, the pot pin will only just
stick out of the other side of the board when at the
right hight. It’s easiest if you only solder a single
pin of the pots until you get the height right.
1 2
3
PC
B
La
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ut
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20
15
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PCB
Align
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Summary of Contents for BadMofo
Page 8: ...Plenty of room...