After you have done all the resistors, you can do the SMD capacitors. Then continue with all
the other larger parts.
Mount the electrolytic capacitors, the square hole indicates the (+) connection. Take care to
mount these correctly. A reversed capacitor will certainly fail; your clock won’t work.
The leds should have the long leg inserted in the square hole. If you reverse them, they won’t
lit.
Some parts are not included, such as the encoder pot and perhaps the parts for the RTC if you
have not ordered these. Also the parts for the programming connection are not included. If
you intend to develop your own oscilloscope clock software, you have to provide these parts
yourself. Check the BOM (Bill of Material).
Do not insert the microcontroller yet.
Connect a 12VDC/100mA (or better) adapter to the board. Test and measure if you have 5V
on the 7805 regulator. If you don’t have 5V, check the polarity of your DC -adapter, you may
need to reverse the +/- and check things again. Proceed if you have a clear +5V.
The next step is to insert the Atmel Microcontroller. Make sure to align the chip with the
socket, pin 1 to pin 1.
Connect the DC adapter again, and see if the led starts blinking. If it doesn’t, turn off power
and carefully check all solderings.
If you have a blinking led, it’s time to hook up your oscilloscope. Connect the channels A and
B of your oscilloscope to the X and Y outputs of the board. Put the oscilloscope in X-Y mode.
Sometimes that is the last or first position of the timebase knob, sometimes it is a pushbutton.
Best image is often achieved with 1:1 probes. Set both channels to 1V/Div and see what
happens. If the image is rotated, swap the probes. If it is mirrored, you may have to flip a
switch on your scope to invert the channel.
Now your Oscilloscope Clock is ready! Congratulations! If it doesn’t work and you can’t find
what is wrong, just send me an email at
