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c)
The wires slip through the holes, and are held in place with rubber bands.
d)
Note: For planes with tricycle gear, you’ll need to attach the nose wheel to the
front crossbar, some reinforcement may be necessary.
5)
Fly it:
a)
Make sure the floats are firmly attached.
b)
Make sure that the floats haven’t upset the plane’s CG, if so move stuff around,
or add weight as necessary so it balances again. Usually I don’t bother if the
new balance point is close to the correct CG.
c)
Do a float test. In the water, the tail end of the floats should be submerged
halfway up their height. More than this, and you may need to move your floats
back. A quick bend on the installed gear usually is enough.
d)
Take off into the wind.
e)
Taxi out with full up elevator to keep the nose level. Start your takeoff run with
up elevator, and and quickly back off on the elevator control as the plane comes
up to speed. Now it should rise up on the step, and break free of the water on
it’s own. If it remains on step, the slightest up elevator should break it loose.
f)
Keep your climb outs gentle. You don’t want to stall.
g)
Land into the wind.
h)
Land with some speed, make sure the plane slides in smoothly. Pretend you’re
landing on pavement. If you “bounce” the plane, the water may grab it and flip it
over, then you’re in for a swim. If you land with a little power, you should return
to the on-step position, and can then back down and sink to the water.
i)
Be careful during cross-wind taxiing, especially on a high-wing plane. The wind
can flip you over if you’re not prepared.
j)
If you’ve done it right, the only reason you’ll need a towel is to wipe the sweat
from your brow.
Enjoy!
-Dan