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©
2010 FiveFish Studios
For comments & corrections about this guide, please email [email protected]
www.fivefishstudios.com
X-12 Microphone Preamp Kit
X-12 Parts Kit
I’ve taken the time to individually package and label every component used in the kit. Just read the part # printed on the zip
bag.
Some bags will contain 2, 3 or 5 different components. Other bags will contain just one part#. I want you to be able to build
this kit, without sorting through hundreds of parts and not know what to do. This will save you a lot of time, and headaches!
Some of you may not even have a multitester (buy one, okay?) so I’m assuming even if you don’t have one, or don’t know how to
use one, you’d still be able to figure out which is the 680-ohm resistor from the 6K8 resistor. It’s all labeled!
Assembly and Soldering Tips
Use a clean soldering iron tip. Heat the component lead and PCB pad, then apply the solder to the component lead while heating
both with your iron. Do not apply the solder only to the iron.
Do not remove all the parts from the zip bags until you are ready to solder them. I’ve taken the time to sort them out; do not
make a big unsorted pile out of them.
The holes on the PCB are plated through. This is also a double-sided PCB. Solder needs to make good contact inside the holes
and on both sides of the PCB. Check that some solder flowed on the other side of the PCB, or that the holes are completely filled.
Be careful that you do not solder resistors in the wrong locations. For example: The resistors near the Grayhill switch are the gain
staging resistors. It is important not to swap the locations of any of these resistors. Otherwise, your gain steps will be out of
order depending on which resistors you swapped locations with each other… For Example: 6dB, 12dB,
24dB, 18dB
, 30dB
The resistors for the 18dB and 24dB were swapped with each other in this example.
Note the orientation of diodes, and electrolytic capacitors. There is only one correct way to mount them. Do NOT mount
electrolytic capacitors backwards.
When soldering multiple-pin devices (like IC sockets, jumper pins, Grayhill switches, DPDT Switches, Pots) solder one leg/pin
first. Then check if the device is still flushed to the board, straight and not crooked. If crooked, re-heat the leg and straighten
with your fingers while the solder is still soft/melted. (DO NOT STRAIGHTEN THE PINS AFTER THE SOLDER BECOMES HARD. You’d
risk ruining the PCB or breaking the part.)
I sometimes use masking tape to hold the component in place on the board, while I solder the leads on the other side. This is
very useful when soldering resistors, inductors, jumper connectors, IC sockets, small parts, etc…
Use a magnifying glass when soldering. This prevents you from using too much solder and let’s you see what you’re doing. Also,
the Grayhill switch has very fine pin spacing. You need good eyesight to solder all pins properly without shorting them together.
