FAQ:
When electrically opened a characteristic clacking sound of the direct current is heard or a buzzing and clacking sound if
alternating current is used, but it does not open.
The door is pressing outwards and this causes the bolt to rub against its housing, preventing it from sliding back.
- Resolve this problem by centring the mechanical and electrical sections.
- If the two sections cannot be centred file the nipples in the electrical section where the bolt is housed
as specified in the installation guide, also install a door closer to ensure that the door does not constantly pressure the lock.
The lock has been connected but it does not produce any sound or open electrically.
The electrical section is badly housed, it is not receiving current or it is not receiving the correct current.
- Respect the distance of 3 to 4 mm between the electrical and mechanical sections.
- Check that the black nylon door handle is vertically centred on the brass window. When the door is closed these have to come into
complete contact with each other.
- Make sure that the lock receives the specified power supply. (Volts x Amps = W (Watts))
- Check the connections to see if there is a short circuit.
- A switch has been installed instead of a button and given that it has received electricity for too long the internal coil has burned out.
The lock does not initially open when the door is pushed.
The bolt tends to get stuck in the nipples of the housing and cannot be retracted.
- Install a door closer and file the nipples in the housing of the electrical section, as indicated in the installation guide, so that the bolt
can be retracted more easily.
The bolt in the mechanical section is very heavy when the lever and/or key is used to operate it.
Incorrectly fitted in the door..
- Check the lock to see if any foreign bodies are present.
- Widen the hole in the door where the lock is housed to reduce pressure on the metal plates.
- Check that the door lever is tight and that its box is not applying pressure to the lock face.
The lock remains open when I close the door despite the power having been cut.
Bear in mind that the lock functions automatically, which means that if the current is cut it waits
for the person to open the door and close it once again.
If this problem occurs more than once.
Door vibration is causing the device to open.
- Respect the distance of 3 to 4 mm between the electrical and mechanical sections, and install the ramp-shaped accessory so that
the door closes more smoothly.
The lock prevents the door from closing.
The lock has been installed upside down, the door is too tight and/or the door frame where the handle is impacting is
fitted in a corner.
- Check that the mechanical section has been installed on the door and the electrical section on the frame.
- Respect the distance of 3 to 4 mm between the electrical and mechanical sections, and install the ramp-shaped accessory.
The black element of the electrical section that covers the reinforced brass window has broken.
Vandalism or incorrect installation may cause this problem.
- Unscrew the armature of the electrical section and remove the T-shaped brass part and the U-shaped black nylon part. Clean and
turn 180º
and fit the unused part in the position where the breakage occurred. Replace the part in the box housing so that the axes in its base
are in line with the holes in the box, then fit the T-shaped part and screw the armature into place once again.
REMEMBER
, interfering with the inner parts of either of the two sections of the lock (except for those indicated in this guide) completely
invalidates the warrantee.
ENGLISH
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