FB Jets T33, Assembly Manual

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FEI BAO/FB Jets Large T33
Step 1: Check Forward Fuselage
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Remove the fuel tanks from the fuselage.
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Also remove the forward component boards. Now would be a good time to put a coat of
paint on these parts if you would like to protect the wood surfaces.
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Vacuum and thoroughly clean the fuselage completely including light sanding on the
mould joins to ensure there are no internal burrs (unlikely given the construction process).
These are painful if they “bite” you during building and could potentially cause an air leak
to tubing or damages to servo wires etc.
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If the nose gear was installed at the factory with bolts and lock washers, check these for
security now. I also recommend checking the functioning of the nose gear now with a
hand pump. Make sure the extension and retraction of the nose wheel is smooth before
final installation. The Nose steering however needs to be set up before final installation with
your chosen servo.
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Once the nose gear and servo is done, install but place a very small dab of thin CA into the
screw hole first. A small toothpick helps limit the amount of glue applied if you don’t have
limiting tip on you CA bottle.
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Check the nuts and connections of the gear doors. If required place a small amount of
thick CA on the nuts to secure.
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Repeat this step for the three nuts that attach the door cylinders to their respective
mounting blocks.
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Check all door hinges for security.
Step 2: Prepping the Fuel System
Disassemble and inspect the tank cap hardware. The process used to cut the tubes may leave
behind a rim that constricts fuel flow and could result in excess tank pressure and leakage. Given
the optional use of three tanks that we have opted for be sure to pressure check and fill prior to
installation in your model. Every care is taken at construction, however sometimes a pin hole leak
within the glass weave may occur. Checking this prior to installation will save cleaning and time for
pulling the tanks back out of your airframe.
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Loosen the Philips head screw and remove the stopper assembly from the tank.
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Use a small, round Perma-Grit rat tail file or a knife to remove the excess metal. You will
need to inspect the ends of all tubes and ensure that there are no loose filings.
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When finished, make sure to blow out the metal fragments and clean up any sharp edges.
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While the components are apart, check the Tygon pickup line for equal lengths in both
saddle tanks. They should be long enough to reach the back of the tanks without being so
long as to restrict their ability to move to the top of the tank when the aircraft is inverted.
Allow a small amount of play to allow the tubes to stretch slightly over time.
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You should also notch the vent tube with a small file to provide for continued air flow should
the tube come into contact with the top of the tank.
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Make sure the bends to the vent tubes applied at the factory have not restricted airflow to
any significant extent. Also, check the Tygon for any nicks or cuts and secure to the tubing
with wire ties before re-assembly.
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Reassemble and mark the tank for vent and fuel for later reference.
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Once the tanks are back together, they should be leak checked before installation in the
aircraft. Connect extra lengths of fuel tubing to the fuel and vent lines and submerge the
tank in water. Pinch off one line and gently pressurize the tank by blowing into the other,
looking for signs of air bubbles. If the tank shows evidence of air leakage around the vent
cap, tighten the Philips head screw and check again. If you have a stubborn leak, you can
re-tap the inner plate for a slightly larger 6/32 cap head bolt.
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Additionally, you can connect them in either series or parallel (whichever is your preferred
method) and use your field pump to fill the tanks. Leave them sit for a couple of hours and
inspect to ensure no leaks are evident.
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If you find any leaks you can repair these by two suggested ways. Internal mix a thin mixture
of 30min epoxy and place inside the tank. Rotate tank until the epoxy has coated the
inside area of the leak identified. Place the cap back into the tank and pressurise with a
compressor quickly then release. This will force epoxy into the leak and leave to cure.