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Empisal Designer 800, Instruction Manual, Page: 19 / 37

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Empisal Designer 800 Instruction Manual Download Page 19

16

 

 

 

Matching needle 

I 

fabric 

I 

thread

 

 

 

NEEDLE, FABRIC, THREAD SELECTION GUIDE

 

 

NEEDLE SIZE 

FABRICS 

THREAD 

9-11(65-75) 

Lightweight  fabrics-thin  cottons,  voile, 

serge,  silk,  muslin,  Oiana,  interlocks, 
cotton  knits,  tricots,  jerseys,  crepes, 
woven  polyester,  shirt 

& 

blouse 

fabrics. 

Light-duty thread in cotton, 
nylon or polyester. 

12(80) 

Medium  weight  fabrics-cotton,  satin, 
kettleclote,  sailcloth,  double  knits, 
lightweight woollens. 

 

 

Most  threads  sold  are  medium 

size  and  suitable  for  these 
fabrics  and  needle  sizes.  Use 
polyester  threads  on  synthetic 
materials  and  cotton  on  natural 
woven  fabrics  for  best  results. 
Always use the same thread on 
top and bottom. 

14(90) 

Medium  weight  fabrics-cotton  duck, 

woollen, 

heavier 

knits,  terrycloth, 

denims. 

 

16{100) 

 

Heavyweight fabrics-canvas, woollens, 

outdoor  tent  and  quilted  fabrics, 
denims,  upholstery  material  (light  to 
medium). 

18(110) 

Heavy  woollens,  overcoat  fabrics, 

upholstery  fabrics,  some  leathers  and 
vinyls. 

Heavy  duty  thread,  carpet 

thread. 

(Use 

heavy 

foot 

pressure -large numbers.) 

IMPORTANT: Match needle size to thread size and weight of fabric 

 

NEEDLE, FABRIC SELECTION

 

 

NEEDLES 

EXPLANATION 

TYPE OF FABRIC 

HA x 1 

15 x 1 

Standard sharp needles. 
Sizes range thin to large. 
9 (65) to 18 (110) 

Natural  woven  fabrics-wool,  cotton,  silk,  etc. 

Qiana. Not recommended for double knits. 

15 x 

1/705H 
(SIN) 

Semi-ball point needle, 
scarfed 9 (65) to 18 (110) 

Natural and synthetic woven fabrics, polyester 

blends.  Knits-polyesters,  interlocks,  tricot, 
single and double knits. Can be used instead 
of 15 x 1 for sewing all fabrics. 

15 x 1/705 HS 

(SUK) 

Full ball point needle 9 

(65) to 18 (110) 

Sweater knits, Lycra, swimsuit fabric, elastic. 

130 PCL 

Leather needles. 12 (80) 
to 18 
(110) 

Leather,  vinyl,  upholstery.  (Leaves  smaller 

hole than standard large needle.) 

Note:

 

1. 

Twin needles, can be purchased for utility and decorative work. 

2. 

When sewing with twin needles, the stitch width dial should be set at less than "2.5". 

3. 

European needles show sizes 65, 70, 80 etc. American and Japanese needles show size 9, 11, 

12 etc. 

4. 

Replace needle often (approximately every other garment) and 

I 

or at first thread breakage or 

skipped stitches. 

Summary of Contents for Designer 800

Page 1: ...Designer 800 Sewing Machine ...

Page 2: ...ble stitch length 4mm Adjustable stitch width 5mm Built in LED light Thread tension dial Three needle positions at right middle or left Shuttle hook system Front loading bobbin Removal extension table Storage compartment Thread cutter Foldable handle Twin needle facility Easy changing presser foot Needle plate with guide lines Manual reverse lever Power switch Soft machine cover included Measureme...

Page 3: ...ate the appliance with any air openings blocked Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint dust and loose cloth 5 Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the sewing machine needle 6 Always use the proper needle plate The wrong plate can cause the needle to break 7 Do not use bent needles 8 Do not pull or push f...

Page 4: ...per thread 12 Thread tension 13 Bringing up the lower thread 14 Reverse sewing Removing the work Cutting the thread 15 Matching needle I fabric I thread 16 How to choose your pattern 17 Straight stitching and needle position 18 Zigzag sewing 19 How to sew 4 step buttonholes 20 3 step zigzag 21 Stitch selection 22 Smocking stitch 23 Practical stitches 24 Darning 25 Attaching lace 26 Applique 27 Twi...

Page 5: ... dial 2 Presser foot pressure 3 Thread take up lever 4 Thread cutting 5 Presser foot 6 Needle plate 7 Sewing table and accessory box 8 Bobbin stopper 9 Stitch length dial 10 Stitch width dial 11 Stitch display 12 Reverse sewing lever ...

Page 6: ...3 Parts Diagram 13 Upper thread guide 14 Presser foot lever 15 Handle 16 Bobbin winder 17 Spool pin 18 Handwheel 19 Pattern selector dial 20 Power switch 21 Main plug socket 22 Bobbin thread guide ...

Page 7: ...uttonhole foot b Butterfly shape screwdriver c Seam ripper brush d Lubricate oil e Needle x 3 pcs f Bobbins x 3 pcs g Twin needle h Screwdriver small i Screwdriver large j Edge Quilting guide k Embroidering plate I Spool holder m All purpose foot ...

Page 8: ...ush it in the direction of the arrow 1 The inside of the snap in sewing table can be utilized as an accessory box To open lift up at the point of the arrow 2 Install The Spool pin 1 Take out the spool pin from the poly foam 2 Loosen the screw M4X18 as shown 3 Install the spool pin as illustrated then tighten the screw ...

Page 9: ...d 1 2 The power switch is located above the terminal box Your machine will not operate unless this switch is on I 1 The sewing light turns on automatically when the main switch is on I To start the machine press the foot control 3 The speed of the machine is regulated by the amount of pressure exerted on the foot control Attention Consult a qualified electrician if in doubt as to connect machine t...

Page 10: ...presser foot pressure of the machine has been pre set and requires no particular readjustment according to the type of fabric light or heavy weight However if you need to adjust the presser foot pressure turn the presser foot pressure dial as shown to the left For sewing very thin fabric loosen the pressure by turning the dial counter clockwise and for heavy fabric tighten by turning it clockwise ...

Page 11: ... 1 Attaching the presser foot Lower the presser foot holder b until the cut out c is directly above the pin d 2 Lower the presser foot holder b and the presser foot f will engage automatically Removing the presser foot Raise the presser foot Release the pressure foot by raising lever e located at the back of the foot holder 3 Attaching the seam guide Attach the seam guide g in the slot as illustra...

Page 12: ...tion Push the bobbin to the right towards the bobbin winding position 2 Press the foot control gently The bobbin will stop winding when it is full Push the bobbin to the left to sewing position and remove it Please Note When the bobbin winder spindle is in bobbin winding position the machine will not sew and the hand wheel will not turn To start sewing push the bobbin winder spindle to the left se...

Page 13: ...e hand Insert the bobbin so that the thread runs in a clockwise direction arrow 2 Pull the thread through the slot down and to the left until it enters the delivery eyelet rectangular opening under the tension spring 3 Hold the bobbin case by the hinged latch 4 Insert the bobbin case fully into the shuttle race and release the latch Make sure that the metal finger fits into the notch at the top of...

Page 14: ...heel towards you until the needle is at its highest position Loosen the needle clamp screw A and tighten again after inserting the new needle 1 The flat side of the needle shaft should be facing away from you B Push the needle up C into the needle clamp as far as it will go D Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly The sewing needle must always be straight and sharp for smooth sewing Replace the nee...

Page 15: ...quence illustrated below If you skip a step or fail to properly engage the thread in any of the thread guides the machine will not sew properly 1 5 Continue to draw the thread down and into the needle bar thread guide Insert the thread through the eye of the needle from front to back Leave about 10 cm 4 of thread loose behind the needle 6 a Spool pin b Spool holder ...

Page 16: ...f the tension is correct the thread will unwind by about an inch or two If the tension is too tight it will not unwind If the tension is too loose the thread will unwind for more than two inches To adjust turn the small screw on the side of the bobbin case 1 Upper thread tension Basic thread tension setting 4 2 To increase the tension turn the dial up to a higher number To reduce the tension turn ...

Page 17: ...n and comes up again to its highest position 1 Lightly draw the needle thread forming a loop with the bobbin thread The upper thread should have caught the lower thread in a loop Pull the needle thread toward you and the lower thread will come up from the bobbin in a large loop 2 Pull about 15 cm 6 of both threads away from you under the presser foot ...

Page 18: ...hes Release the lever and the machine will sew forwards again A Turn the handwheel towards you to bring the thread take up lever to its highest position Raise the presser foot and draw the fabric away from you Cutting the thread Hold the threads behind the presser foot Using both hands guide them to the slit B at the rear of the presser bar and press down to cut the thread You can also use the thr...

Page 19: ...rpet thread Use heavy foot pressure large numbers IMPORTANT Match needle size to thread size and weight of fabric NEEDLE FABRIC SELECTION NEEDLES EXPLANATION TYPE OF FABRIC HA x 1 15 x 1 Standard sharp needles Sizes range thin to large 9 65 to 18 110 Natural woven fabrics wool cotton silk etc Qiana Not recommended for double knits 15 x 1 705H SIN Semi ball point needle scarfed 9 65 to 18 110 Natur...

Page 20: ... the pattern desired with pattern selector dial and adjust the stitch width with the stitch width dial To obtain any of the patterns on the second row turn the stitch length dial to S 1 select the pattern desired with pattern selector dial and adjust the stitch width with the stitch width dial To obtain any of the other patterns shown in the third row on the stitch selection panel select the lette...

Page 21: ... position Generally speaking the thicker the fabric thread and needle the longer the stitch should be Choose your needle position from left position to right needle position by changing the stitch width dial 1 from 0 to 5 1 Stitch width dial 2 Stitch length dial 3 Stitch display 4 Pattern selector dial 5 Reverse sewing lever ...

Page 22: ... 1 Function of stitch length dial while zigzagging The density of zigzag stitches increase as the setting of stitch length dial approaches 0 Neat zigzag stitches are usually achieved at 3 5 or below 2 Satin stitch When the stitch length is set between 0 1 the stitches are very close together producing the satin stitch which is used for making buttonholes and decorative stitches Sewing thin fabrics...

Page 23: ...foot so that the buttonhole centre line marked on the fabric aligns with the centre of the buttonhole foot Adjust the stitch length dial between 0 5 1 to set stitch density Note Density varies according to the fabric Always test sew a buttonhole on the fabric you are using to sew the buttonhole Follow the 4 step sequence changing from one step to another with the stitch pattern selector dial Take ...

Page 24: ...position The stitch length can be shortened to produce very close stitches 1 When mending tears it is advisable to use a piece of backing fabric to reinforce The stitch density can be varied by adjusting the stitch length First sew over the centre and then overlap on both sides Depending on the type of fabric and damage sew between 3 and 5 rows 2 ...

Page 25: ...chine sews two stitches forwards and one stitch backwards This gives triple reinforcement Triple zigzag 2 4 Pattern selector on 8 For hardwearing seams hems and decorative seams Turn the stitch length dial to S1 Adjust the stitch width dial to between 3 and 5 Triple zigzag is suitable for firm fabrics like denim corduroy etc 22 ...

Page 26: ...ear etc Set the machine as illustrated This stitch can be used for all types of jersey as well as for woven fabrics 1 Sew at 1 cm 1 4 from the fabric edge and trim the surplus fabric 2 Pattern selector on C Turn the stitch length dial to S1 23 ...

Page 27: ...le for edges on sheer fine and stretch fabrics The larger stitch should go just over the edge of the fabric to create the shell effect Crescent stitch B For a delicate edge finish along the edge of fabric Stitch length should be set from 0 5 1 0 Rampart C For flat joining seams sewing on elastic and visible hems This stitch can be used for firm thicker fabrics ...

Page 28: ...osition Position the fabric to be darned under the presser foot together with the under laying fabric to be used Lower the presser foot and alternately sew forward or reverse using the lever Repeat this motion until the area to be darned is filled with rows of stitching For reverse sewing instructions see page 16 ...

Page 29: ...e needle position Fold in the edge of the fabric approximately 6 mm 1 4 Place the lace under the folded edge of the fabric allowing it to under lap the fabric slightly as required by the pattern of the lace Sew on the edge of the fabric fold You can add a decorative touch by using the satin stitch to sew the lace ...

Page 30: ...g Select a narrow zigzag width Cut out the applique design and baste it to the fabric Sew slowly around the edge of the design Trim excess material outside the stitching Make sure not to cut any stitches Remove the basting thread Tie top and bottom thread under the applique to avoid unravelling ...

Page 31: ... or two colours Insert the twin needle in the same way as single needle Flat side of needle should face away from you Follow instructions for single needle threading Thread each needle separately Please note When sewing with twin a needle always proceed slowly and make sure to maintain a low speed to ensure quality stitching When using twin needle on zigzag make sure the stitch width dial is set b...

Page 32: ...e edges to a thin piece of paper leaving a small space between them 2 Set the Pattern selector on G Turn the stitch length dial to S1 3 Stitch along the edge pulling both threads slightly when beginning to sew Use thicker than normal thread for sewing 4 After sewing remove the basting and the paper Finish by tying knots on the reverse side at the beginning and the end of the seams ...

Page 33: ...le area 2 Cleaning and lubricating the hook Remove the bobbin case Snap the two hook retaining arms a outwards Remove the hook race cover b and the hook c and clean with a soft cloth Lubricate at the points d 1 2 drops with sewing machine oil Turn the hand wheel until the hook race e is in the left position Replace the hook c Replace the hook race cover and snap back the two hook retaining arms In...

Page 34: ...d bobbin case 3 Loosen lower thread tension as described Skipped stitches 1 The needle is not inserted correctly 2 The needle is damaged 3 The wrong size needle has been used 4 The foot is not attached correctly 1 Remove and reinsert needle flat side towards the back 2 Insert a new needle 3 Choose a needle to suit the thread and fabric 4 Check and attach correctly Needle breaks 1 The needle is dam...

Page 35: ...read and insert correctly 3 Do not pull on the fabric while sewing let it be taken up by the machine The machine is noisy 1 The machine must be lubricated 2 Fluff or oil have collected on the hook or needle bar 3 Poor quality oil has been used 4 The needle is damaged 1 Lubricate as described 2 Clean the hook and feed dog as described 3 Only use good quality sewing machine oil 4 Replace the needle ...

Page 36: ...for possible repair or replacement If the retailer fails to resolve the problem and you need to return the machine make sure that The unit is packed carefully back into its original packaging Proof of purchase is attached A reason is provided for why it is being returned If the supply cord is damaged it must be replaced by the manufacturer or an authorised service agent in order to avoid any hazar...

Page 37: ...xchange the product in terms of this warranty subject to legislative requirements This warranty shall be valid only where the customer has not broken the product himself or used the product for something that it is not supposed to be used for The warranty does not include and will not be construed to cover products damaged as a result of disaster misuse tamper abuse or any unauthorised modificatio...

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