31
10.2 Table of setting the machine according to the sewing category
Commercial designation of the machine
1280i - 6XX - X
1) The standard setting of the machine for the categories 3 and 4 concerns a decorative stitching, when it is difficult to match
a good stitch interlocking with a faultless function of the thread trimming device. Otherwise, when sewing material of
considerable overall thickness, it will be necessary to increase the overtopping of the teeth above the needle plate and to
increase also the needle thread tension.
2) The thickness of a layer is measured using an engineer slide calliper with the pressure of jaws of about 10 N.
3)
The splice with the so-called spur is being mounted as a standard with the sewing categories 100 and 200 and is designed
for sewing thin materials. For sewing thicker materials with a maximum stitch length it is possible to use a splice without spur
(mounted as a standard with the sewing categories 300, 400).
4) The values of tension are only orientative ones and it is necessary to adapt especially the tension of the hook thread
according to the stiffness of the material. An excessive tension of the threads when sewing soft materials causes material
wrinkling.
5) When performing decorative stitching of the category 4, the hook thread having the label No 20 is used.
6) When changing markedly the sewing category together with changing the tension of the hook thread, it is necessary to
modify the tension of the retaining spring of the trimming device according to the paragraph 4.7.
7) When changing markedly the sewing category together with a marked change of the needle number, it is necessary to correct
the setting of the distance of the hook from the needle, according to the paragraph 3.1.3.
8) There are in use various types of feeders with the purpose of avoiding imprinting the teeth in the lining leather. Otherwise, it
is possible to use any feeder.
10.3 Table of possible stitch widths of needles according to the sewing category
Standard machine setting
1)
Needle
Sewing Position
Width
Feeder
Presser
Presser
Thread tension
Splice of hook
size
speed of feeding of needle
-
top roller top roller
4)
lever pin
plate
pitch
diameter
position
insert
of teeth
needle
hook
hole
thread
thread
7)
8)
6)
0,01 mm
SPM
m m
m m
m m
m m
N
N
80
2500
1
1,2
0,6
35
10,5
31
3)
90
2000
1
1,5
0,6
35
10,5
4,5
1,5
3)
130
1200
2
2
0,6
35
10,5
5 - 8
2
160
800
2
2,4
1,2
35
10,5
10- 12
2 - 2,5
Setting as per chapter
Instructions for service
3.6.3.1.2
3.3.2
3.6.3.2.2
3.7.6.1
3.7.6.2
Instructions manua
6.5
6.4
6.4
Instructions for assembling
2.4
4.5
Sewing
category
-100
-200
-300
-400
Standard sewing parameters
Seam
Thick- Number Stitch
Label
dis-
ness
o f
length num-
tance
of one material
ber of
material
layers
thread
layer
PES
2)
m m
m m
m m
1,2
0,8
2
2
70
1,6
1
2
2,5
40
2
1,5
1-2
3,5
20
2,4
2
1-2
4
10/20
5)
Sewing
Distance of seams (stitch width)
Maximum
category
1,2
1,6
2
2,4
3,2
stitch length
mm
mm
3
3
3
4
4
3
5
5
4
5
5
- 100
Light
- 200
Medium
- 300
Medium heavy
- duty
- 400
Heavy - duty
(decorative)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
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