Loudspeaker Kit Assembly Instructions
By following these instructions and assembling the speaker in a con-
scientious manner, you will be able to enjoy your investment for many
years to come. If there are any questions during the assembly process,
please contact your place of purchase.
Gather the Necessary Tools
The assembly of your speaker kit requires several basic tools and
supplies, though more advanced tools can be used if desired. The fol-
lowing list represents the basic tools that are required:
Hammer
#2 Phillips head screwdriver or power driver
Small wrench or pliers
Silicone adhesive or hot-melt glue gun
Scissors or utility knife (for cutting foam)
Workspace Considerations
As with any type of kit assembly, it is best to have a well-lit, large, clean
work area. This will save time by eliminating lost parts and preventing
assembly errors. When working with the cabinets, it is important to
cover the work surface with a cloth or foam layer to protect the speaker
finish. The foam wrap that is around the speaker cabinets will work well
for this, but make sure it is free from dust or other debris.
Getting Organized
To prepare for the kit assembly, begin with some basic unpacking
and organizing. Open the large speaker cabinet box and remove the
cabinet from the packaging. You will need to unwrap the cabinet itself,
saving the wrap to protect your work surface. Remove the baffle from
the cabinet and place the baffle screws somewhere safe. Unpack the
binding posts and other packaged items.
Assembly
1. Install Binding Posts
The posts will need to be
“knocked” into place with
a hammer and secured
from the inside of the cab-
inet. Start by placing the
cabinet face-down onto
the work surface, being
sure that the cabinet is
firmly supported.
Remove the binding posts
from their package, and
unscrew all washers and
nuts from the shaft. Next,
remove the main nut that
is used to hold the speaker wire onto the terminals—this will prevent
them from getting damaged while the posts are being inserted.
Insert one of the post shafts into the hole and align it, ensuring the
wire through-hole is running vertically. Gently tap into place until the
shoulder is even with the rear of the cabinet.
Note: Excessive hammering is not necessary and may cause damage
to the finish of the cabinet around posts. Repeat the same process with
the second post.
Once the posts have been knocked into place you will need to secure
them from the inside of the cabinet. A lock washer followed by a nut
should be installed to secure the posts to the cabinet. Next, install the
wire terminal tab, the second lock washer, the second nut, and then
tighten into place.
Now that the posts are fully secured, reinstall the colored knobs on the
outside of the cabinet. When viewed from the rear of the cabinet (termi-
nals should be closer to the “bottom” of the cabinet), the “red” terminal
is normally positioned on the right-hand side.
2. Wiring and installing the crossovers
The crossover is composed of two sections (two boards): a low pass
filter for the woofer and a high pass filter for the tweeter. There is an
indicator on the printed circuit board near the output terminals of each
filter, “W” denotes the low pass filter and is for connection to the woofer
and “T” denotes the high pass filter and is for connection to the tweeter.
The input terminal for each board is indicated using “IN”.
Note: In most cases the cause of a problem will be traced back to im-
proper wiring of the crossover so please double check your connections.
Wiring:
Each kit includes input, woofer(s) and tweeter wiring harness
with the crossover boards.
Using the parts list, identify the correct harnesses and attach to the ap-
propriate terminals on the crossover boards. The crossover board side
of the harness will always use the larger .250" connectors. Connect the
input wiring harness from both crossover boards to the binding posts
wire terminal tabs while paying close attention to polarity. The red wires
will connect to the terminals that are marked with a + sign.
Location: With the crossover boards in the cabinet and connected to
the input binding posts, identify a suitable mounting location making
sure both the woofer(s) and tweeter wiring harness will reach their
respective drivers. The best location for the high pass filter is on the
bottom front half of the cabinet and the best location for the low pass
filter is across the center of the internal brace.
Mounting: Secure the crossovers to the inside of the cabinet with the
included #6 screws or with silicone or hot-melt glue. If using hot-melt
glue, it is recommended to place the glue on the surface of the cabinet
and then press the board into it. This prevents the glue from cooling too
rapidly or dripping onto the cabinet. For curved-sided cabinets, we rec-
ommend using the screws to secure the crossover boards. If you are
using silicone, it is easier to apply the glue to the back of the PC board.
Make sure the mounting location is horizontal, and place the board
into its location. Allow the silicone to cure for an hour or so before you
change the orientation of the cabinet.
3. Install damping material
Fully line the cabinet using the included 1-1/2" acoustic foam. One
sheet should be allocated for each cabinet—cut the foam to size and
then secure to the cabinet interior walls using a spray adhesive such
as 3M’s Super 77 or with hot-melt glue. Cut and piece the foam around
crossover boards and bracing. When using spray adhesive, please
follow the manufacturer’s instructions. It is best to apply the spray to the
foam itself, being sure to spray away from the cabinet to prevent getting
adhesive on the cabinet exterior. When using hot-melt glue, simply
place a few drops of glue at various locations on the rear of the foam
and press into place.
Note: Do not place foam directly on top of or underneath the
crossover boards.
4. Install the baffle
Press the baffle into the cabinet, working carefully to ensure that no
wires are trapped between the baffle and the cabinet. Rout the driver
wiring to their proper driver hole location. Once the baffle is fully
installed, it can be secured via the included machine screws and glued
into place if desired.
Note: Once the baffle is glued into place, making any changes to the
speaker becomes very difficult. Using the four machine screws by
themselves will have adequate holding power to prevent leaks and
vibrations of the baffle. However, for the utmost cabinet strength, the
baffle should be glued into place with polyurethane glue.
5. Install drivers in baffle
When mounting the drivers, start with the tweeter. This will leave the
large woofer opening to help the wiring and placement of the more
delicate tweeter. Identify the tweeter wiring harness and gently pull it
through the tweeter opening and attached the terminals while paying
close attention to the polarity of the connections. The red wires will
connect to the terminals that are marked with a “red” dot or “+” sign.
Repeat this step for the woofer(s).
All drivers should be lowered carefully into place on the baffle. Facing
the terminals towards the bottom of the cabinet is the generally accepted
orientation, though it is not a critical. Using the included screws and pre-
drilled pilot holes carefully tighten the drivers down onto the baffle. Pay
particular attention to not over-tighten screws on drivers with stamped
steel or polymer frames, which can cause deformation of the flange.
Secure the drivers to the baffles with the included screws. All screw
holes are pre-drilled so be sure to properly align the drivers with these
holes during installation. For all driver installations, some form of gas-
ket material should be used between the driver frames and the baffle to
prevent air leaks and vibrations.
Crossover Diagram
Frequency Graph
Front
Back
Dimensions based on traditional cabinet design.
Specifications: • Impedance: 8 ohms • Frequency response: 60 - 20,000 Hz • SPL: 88 dB 2.83V/1m • Power Handling: 65 watts RMS
• Cabinet dimensions (straight-sided): 12" H x 7.5" W x 10" D • Cabinet dimensions (curved sided): 12" H x (7.5" front, 4.5" back) W x 10.5" D.
Parts Inventory
Before beginning the assembly process, please read this manual in its entirety and confirm that you have all necessary components listed below.
If anything appears to be missing, please contact your place of purchase immediately
Qty
Description
1
Dayton Audio custom .25 ft³ cabinet pair
2
Dayton Audio RS28A-4 1-1/8" aluminum dome tweeter
2
Dayton Audio RS150-8 6" aluminum cone woofer
2
Dayton Audio Optimized high pass filter
2
Dayton Audio Optimized low pass filter
2
Input wiring harness (12" w/ .250" terminals)
2
Woofer wiring harness (12" w/ .250" terminals)
Qty
Description
2
Tweeter wiring harness (12" w/ .250" terminals)
2
Dayton Audio heavy duty binding post pair
1
Acoustic foam 24" x 18" x 1-1/2" UL 94
24
#6 x 3/4" Pan head screws
12
#8 x 3/4" Pan head screws
2
36" Speaker sealing caulk
1
Assembly instruction manual
Introduction
The Dayton Audio RS150-8 6" woofer and Dayton Audio RS28A-4 1-1/8" tweeter have been sonically matched and integrated in this system. Great
drivers, superbly constructed enclosures, and optimized crossovers are combined to provide impressive music playback performance. The net crossover
point between the woofer and tweeter is at about 2,300 Hz. A fourth-order acoustic slope was used for the low pass filter and the tweeter utilizes a simple
third-order electrical filter.
The overall output capability and impressive bass response of this compact loudspeaker is second to none—supplemented with a subwoofer, this sys-
tem really rocks! It is very accurate, yet not harsh or overly clinical. When used properly, the RS621 can handle a healthy amount of power and produce
sound pressure levels that will fill any average-sized room. Overall, these great all-around compact speakers will excel in a myriad of applications.
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