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an indication of worn brushes or carbon build-up in the motor after seasonal storage. Back-driving the motor
by hand may clear carbon build-up and restore brush contact.
Motor turns the wheel the Wrong Direction
The direction the motor rotates must be set for the wheel to turn the correct direction; it has been preset for
your installation at the factory. See Changing the Changing the Motor Rotation on page 7.
Motor Runs But Drive Pulley Does Not Rotate
Check that shear screws are not broken or bent. The stainless drive-plate is fastened to the motor shaft by a
setscrew. If the stainless drive-plate is loose, use a 1/8" hex key to remove Locking Set Screw. Tighten Cone
Point Set Screw. Replace and tighten locking set screw. See diagram on page 16.
Motor will also turn very slow/weak if there is too much voltage drop in power wires.
Unit Will Steer/Turn in Only One Direction
Try turning the pilot off and restarting with the required 60 second warm-up.
Be sure there is no magnetic interference, and that the magnetic reference was set for your hemisphere; it is
pre-set for the northern hemisphere at the factory, but can be changed as needed.
During the warm-up period the sensor heading will drift. Allow at least 1 minute for the pilot to warm-up
after powering it on. Keep the vessel on a consistent heading for 30 seconds before flipping to Hold Heading. If
the pilot is toggled to Hold Heading without adequate warm-up time, it may turn and pulse frequently (once
per second) in the same direction. At the dock, while the boat is stationary and unable to respond, it is normal
for the pilot to make a small correction every 10 seconds.
Continual turning one direction once per second while sailing or if the pilot steers on some headings but not
others may be an indication of magnetic interference near the control box or failure to set the magnetic
reference for your hemisphere. Refer to the section “Setting the Magnetic Reference” on page 7.
Under Steers, Boat Does Not Reach Heading Or Does So Slowly, Eventually Falling Off-Heading
Small repeated heading corrections in one directions indicates the Rudder control is too low - increase setting;
turn rudder high as possible without causing over-steering. It may also indicate the Deadband is set too high—
lower deadband setting (may be both conditions). Make sure boat is making adequate headway, set Deadband
to lowest setting, Rudder high enough so that one motor-pulse brings the boat back to the rumbline.
Some spade rudders on racing-type hulls are easily understeered or oversteered, and the best rudder setting
may be a compromise between the two.
Over steers, Passes Course, “S” Turns
Rudder control set too high – use lower setting. Deadband may be too low – increase the setting (may be
both).
Rhythmic Steering, Corrects as Boat Rolls with Swells
Deadband set too low – increase setting.
Frequent Corrections to Port/Starboard, Rudder and Deadband Controls Ineffective: Wheel Play
This is typically from too much play in the steering system, or air bubbles, foaming or valve delay in hydraulic
systems. The boat’s rudder will not center, and play will alternate between port and starboard sides. The pilot
tends to only hold heading within 10-20 degrees or more, understeering on one side, oversteering on the other,
and the best rudder dial setting will be a compromise between the oversteering and understeering. Adjusting
the rudder and deadband dials may seem to have little effect. To check for play in the steering system:
While having someone holding and locking the rudder quadrant to one side, measure how far the wheel turns.
Place 18” of masking tape on the outside perimeter of the wheel, centered at the top of the wheel, top-dead-
center (TDC).
