Chrysler Stratus LHD 1997, Interactive Electronic Service Manual

Page: 1291 / 1534

WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
crosswinds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
•
Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
•
Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
•
Misaligned movable components.
•
Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
•
Weld burn through holes.
UNIVERSAL TRANSMITTER
Universal Transmitter will operate most:
•
Garage door opener
•
Gate opener
•
Home/Office lighting and/or security system(s)
The transmitter is powered by the M1 circuit that
supplies voltage to the driver side visor/vanity lamp.
TRAINING THE UNIVERSAL TRANSMITTER
To train the transmitter refer to the Owner’s Man-
ual.
TESTING TRANSMITTER
(1) Check for battery voltage at the Universal
Transmitter by pressing a button and seeing if a red
lamp comes on. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, go to
Step 2.
(2) Check if visor/vanity lamp lights. If lamp
lights, replace visor. If lamp does not light go to Step
3.
(3) Check fuse. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK,
repair as necessary.
(4) Remove visor and test M1 wire for battery volt-
age at the visor connector. If voltage is OK, go to
Step 5. If no voltage repair wire as necessary. Refer
to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for proper terminals.
(5) Test Z1 wire for ground at the visor connector.
If ground is OK, replace visor. If no ground repair
wire as necessary.
(6) Check the instructions in the Owner’s Manual
and retrain the transmitter. If the transmitter can
not be trained replace visor.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
GRILLE—CP-MODEL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove front bumper fascia, refer to Group 13,
Bumpers and Frame for proper procedures.
(2) Using a suitable drill, remove rivets holding
grille to front fascia.
(3) Separate grille from fascia (Fig. 1).
INSTALLATION
Reverse the preceding operation.
Fig. 1 Grille
PUSH-IN FASTENER GRILLE FASCIA
23 - 20 BODY
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)