Century Helicopter Products Twinstar CN1075 User Manual Download

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The windshield in the kit version needs work as compared to the ARF version where it is ready to be bonded to
front body. After the fuselage is painted, the windshields are attached using “Goop” or “R/C 56 Canopy Glue”
types of adhesives. For “Goop” it is important to notice that the recessed surface on the front body is 1/4” [6mm]
wide that provides the bonding surface for the windshield. This fuselage is designed to have the pilot and rearward
windows open, for engine cooling purposes, resist the urge to enclose these windows, as it can cause an engine to
overheat and subsequently quit. All very bad for scale helicopters.

STEP 7 Horizontal Stabilizers

After marking, drill a 3/32” [2.5mm] hole centered at the
mark on the stabilizer and drill 7/8” [22mm] deep from the
end. This is for the threaded rod, soak the hole with CA
glue, when dry thread the rod in. Drill a matching
1/8” [3mm] hole in the fuselage, this is only for alignment
and the rod should be a snug but easy fit. Once painted,
roughen the bonding surface and attach the fin using slow-
CA or “Goop” to the tail boom. Apply removeable “magic”
tape to the end of the stabilizer to the tail boom top and
bottom to ensure the stabilizers dry in the same position.

After marking, drill the 1/8” [3mm] hole in the fuselage. The end of the pre-finished stabilizer is bare balsa,
carefully soak the end with thin-CA or balsa filler to provide a hard bonding surface. On the fuselage, you have a
couple of choices, you can sand the bonding surface with fine-sandpaper to remove the paint and roughen the
fiberglass but be carefull not to remove any paint on the tailboom. Alternately, if you are bonding with slow-CA,
you can lightly sand the paint surface to remove the gloss finish and bond directly. Follow the taping procedure at
the end of the kit version until dry.

The horizontal stabilizers are attached to the tail boom by bonding the edge of the fin to the matching molded
protrusion on the tail boom. The threaded rods are only for alignment and do not significantly add to the strength
of the joint. Match the horizontal stabilizer to the mating molded section in the tail boom and draw a pencil line at
1/3~1/2 from the leading edge of the stabilizer.

ARF

ARF V

Ver

ersion

sion

Kit

Kit V

Ver

ersion

sion

Horizontal

Stabilizer x 2

(unfinished)

[CN1075-3]

STEP 8 Windshield Preparation

Careful inspection will reveal a scribe line around the outside of
the each windshield half. Using a black marker, trace the line and
cut out both sides. It is simple to rough cut the parts first with
heavy shears or tin snips, this removes alot of the excess material
making the final trimming much easier with a sharp pair of scis-
sors. Curved hobby scissors are good but be careful, the hobby
scissors are really designed to cut small diameter radii and can be
difficult to cut in a straight line. To be extra careful, trim to within
1/16” [1.5mm] and sand the edges to get a perfect fit. For finish-
ing, using masking tape or liquid mask (common to R/C car
hobbyshops) mask off all areas except the outside 1/4” edge.
Using masking tape, cover the entire back side to avoid over-
spray while painting and apply paint to match the color planned
for the front body section. Let completely dry.

Kit

Kit V

Ver

ersion

sion

Windshield

(unfinished)

[CN1075-4]

Flat Side

Twinstar Detail Manual