Copyright 2015 © C. B. Gi
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er Supply 9
(
Figure 21
).
A few light taps with a small mallet or wood scrap may be required to seat it securely, but don’t overdo it or
the bone or wood may break. You should not need to glue the saddle in place, since the strings will hold it
down.
When installed, the bevels on the top edge of the saddle will be have the look of an ascending set of steps.
Take a close look at Figure 22 to see how the angled/beveled parts of the saddle should be placed. This will
help ensure good intonation once the instrument is strung up.
Step 4—Mount the Bridge
If you substitute the box, and the top is paper-covered, it can be a good idea to lightly mark the bridge’s out-
line on the top and use a file to rough up or remove the paper a little, to help the glue get a better hold.
Now, using two of the provided washer-head
screws (the heads are a little bigger in diameter
than the screws shown in the picture to the right),
carefully position, glue and screw the bridge to the
box, as shown in
Figure 22
.
If using a power driver, be mindful of how much
pressure you apply. Driving too hard and too fast
may split the tabs. Overtightening may also split the
thin wood of the bridge.
Step 5—Install the Bracing Screws
Using the two remaining washer-head screws, pre-
drill holes about ½” down from the box lid and
mount them into the box, as shown in
Figure 23
.
The goal here is to hit the center of the bridge bracing block inside the box. This will help the box lid stand up
to the tension of the strings once they are tuned up.
P
4—F
A
S
In this section we’ll walk you through finalizing the neck portion of the instrument, from installing the nut and
tuners to getting your ukulele strung up.
Step 1—Install the Nut and Tuners
Figure 16
Figure 17
