At the end of the boil, we’ll turn the element off and allow the
whirlpool to run for 1–2 minutes. After the 1–2 minutes is up, you can
turn the pump off, and allow the whirlpool to settle. The reason we
want to create this whirlpool is to accumulate all of the hop sediment,
grain particles that made it through during sparge, extra proteins, etc.
in the center of the boil kettle. Allow the whirlpool to settle in the
center of the kettle for about 15 minutes (you can crack the boil kettle
lid open to see if it’s still swirling around – if not then you’re ready
to transfer). If you’re using an immersion chiller, you’ll want to wait
until your wort is at the desired temperature prior to transferring. If
you’re using a plate or counterflow chiller, you’ll be ready to transfer
through the chiller once the whirlpool has settled. To transfer into
your fermenter(s), you’ll want to close the bottom coupler ball valve,
disconnect the quick disconnect from the pump, and run that length
of tubing to your fermenter(s).
NOTE: Transferring at a slightly slower
rate will help ensure that you do not create too much suction on the
inside of your boil kettle, which will help keep the hop sediment to
remain in the center of the boil kettle.
We highly recommend taking good notes to help perfect your brewing
style and recipes.
Example of Useful Notes:
HOW THE CONTROL PANEL WORKS
• HLT Temp:
• Volume of Water Transferred
to Mash:
• Weight of Grist:
• Mash Temp:
• Mash pH:
• Mash Length:
• Recirculation Length:
• Sparge Length:
• Collected Boil Volume:
• Boil Length:
• Wort Volume:
• Evaporation Percentage =
(Collected Volume-Wort Volume)/
Wort Volume
• The Hot Liquor Tank float and temperature probe will enable the HLT
element to be powered. When the cooler sweet wort runs through the
heat exchanger, this will lower your hot liquor water temperature.
• When this water temperature drops below your set point, the control
panel will tell the bottom box to turn on the element until the set point
is reached again, at which point the control panel will tell the bottom
box to turn the element off.
• The Mash Temperature Probe will be controlling the pump during your
mash process. When the temperature of your mash falls below the set
point on the mash program it will turn the pump on. This will begin
pumping your mash through the heat exchanger, gradually bringing it
back to the proper temperature.
• When in Mash or Sparge Mode, the Pump buttons on any screen can
override the pumps in an emergency; such as a leaking hose connection.
• While sparging, the pump will now turn on until the float switch has
risen to the top, at which point it will shut the pump off. As liquid drains
from your mash tun into the boil kettle, the float switch will lower, even-
tually turning the pump back on, restarting the cycle. The software has
a delay to keep the pump from cycling too quickly.
• The hot liquor tank float switch is an extra safety precaution. Once
the liquid level of the hot liquor tank goes below the float switch, the
element in the hot liquor tank will not turn on, preventing premature
element failure.
• When the control panel calls to both the HLT element and the Boil
Kettle at the same time the Boil Intensity Slider controls the power to both
kettles. If the Slider is set to 50% (as an example) then the HLT will get 3
seconds of heat, if it’s below temp, the boil kettle will get 3 seconds of
heat. This allows the HLT temp to be maintained during sparging and
using the extra power to heat the boil kettle in order to shorten the
brew day.
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