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52
If the decorative stitch patterns or
buttonhole are uneven when sewing with
particular fabrics, turn the feed balancing
dial with a coin or a screwdriver for
adjustment.
*
This dial should usually be in a neutral
position. (1)
Adjusting distorted stretch stitch
patterns
If the patterns are too open, turn the dial
to left. (2) -
If the patterns are too close, turn the dial
to right. (2) +
Adjusting the stitch density of
buttonhole
If the stitches on the right side of the
buttonhole are too close, turn the dial to
left. (3) -
If the stitches on the right side of the
buttonhole are too open, turn the dial to
right. (3) +
Adjust pattern balance
EN
NEEDLE, FABRIC, THREAD SELECTION GUIDE
54
EN
THREAD
Light-duty thread in cotton, nylon or polyester.
Most threads sold are medium size and suitable for these
fabrics and needle sizes. Use polyester threads on synthetic
materials and cotton on natural woven fabrics for best
results. Always use the same thread on top and bottom.
Heavy duty thread, carpet thread. (Use heavy foot pressure-
large numbers.)
NEEDLE SIZE
9-11/65-75
12/80
14/90
16/100
18/110
FABRICS
Lightweight fabrics-thin cottons, voile, serge, silk, muslin, Qiana, interlocks,
cotton knits, tricots, jerseys, crepes, woven polyester, shirt & blouse fabrics.
Medium weight fabrics-cotton, satin, kettleclote, sailcloth, double knits,
lightweight woollens.
Medium weight fabrics-cotton duck, woolen, heavier knits, terrycloth, denims.
Heavyweight fabrics-canvas, woolens, outdoor tent and quilted fabrics, denims,
upholstery material (light to medium).
Heavy woollens, overcoat fabrics, upholstery fabrics, some leathers and vinyls.
IMPORTANT: Match needle size to thread size and weight of fabric
NEEDLE, FABRIC SELECTION
NEEDLES
HA×1
15×1
15×1/ 130/705H
15×1/ 130/705H
(SUK)
130PCL/
705H-LR/LL
EXPLANATION
Standard sharp needles. Sizes range thin to large. 9 (65) to
18 (110)
Semi-ball point needle, scarfed. 9 (65) to 18 (110)
Full ball point needle 9 (65) to 18 (110)
Leather needles. 12 (80) to 18 (110)
TYPE OF FABRIC
Natural woven fabrics-wool, cotton, silk, etc. Qiana. Not recommended for
double knits.
Natural and synthetic woven fabrics, polyester blends. Knits-polyesters, interlocks,
tricot, single and double knits. Can be used instead of 15×1 for sewing all
fabrics.
Sweater knits, Lycra, swimsuit fabric, elastic.
Leather, vinyl, upholstery. (Leaves smaller hole than standard large needle.
Note:
1. Twin needles can be purchased for utility and decorative work.
2. When sewing with twin needles, the stitch width dial should be set less than “2.5”(model 55), “4”(model 65/80e/90e).
3. European needles show sizes 65, 70, 80 etc. American and Japanese needles show size 9, 11, 12 etc.
4. Replace needle often (approximately every other garment ) and / or at first thread breakage or skipped stitches.