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12/13/10
Sewing Machine Needles
General Information
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation.
Many “mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be
traced to a bent, damaged, or incorrect size or type needle.
When selecting the correct needle, consider the following:
Needle system
– 130/705H
Needle point
– assures proper stitch formation; avoids fabric
damage
Needle size
– smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier
fabrics
If the needle is:
Too small
– the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a
loop to be picked up by the hook point
Bent
– the thread loop forms too far away from hook point
and the hook can’t enter the loop to form a stitch
Blunt
– the needle won’t pierce fabric, so no thread loop
forms to make a stitch
Need to Know
Needles should be changed after every 4-6
hours of stitching. The needle is the most
inexpensive part in your sewing machine
but it is crucial for getting good results and
keeping your machine running well. Don’t
let false economy keep you from doing
what is best for your sewing projects and
your machine.
Needle “Secret” Code
• DRI = Triple
• E = Embroidery
• J = Jeans
• L, LL, R = Leather
• M = Microtex
• MET = Metallica
• N = Topstitching/Cordonnet
• Q = Quilting
• S = Stretch
• SUK = Fine Ball Point
• SES = Medium Ball Point
• WING = Wing
• ZWI = Double
The selected thread should fit
in the groove on the front of the
needle. If it isn’t protected by the
groove, a needle with a larger
groove should be used.
Always make sure needles are
fully inserted as high as possible,
with the flat side to the back.
Regardless of the system, the
greater the number, the larger
the diameter of the needle.
60 = 8
70 = 10
75 = 11
80 = 12
90 = 14
100 = 16
110 = 18
120 = 19
European vs. Domestic
Needle Size Conversion
Parts
of
a
Needle
Shank (flat side to the back)
Groove (on the front)
Scarf (on the back)
Eye
Point
Shaft
60 – very fine batiste
70 – shirt-weight
80 – medium-weight
90 – denim and twill
100/110/120 – canvas
Needle Size for Fabrics
