6. Temporarily remove rib W 2 from the
assembly.
7. One at a time, accurately align the jig tabs
of all the ribs with the plan and pin them to your
building board. In addition to T-pins, place weights
on top of the ribs and the aft spars to insure that
all
the jig tabs are contacting your building board.
Inspect all joints and make sure everything aligns
with the plan. The spar web must fully contact the
bottom spar. A die-cut 1/8" plywood
90
degree
gauge
is supplied in the kit to help you keep the
ribs vertical as you glue them.
8. Use medium or thin CA
to
glue all the
joints. Use the CA sparingly at this stage of
construction and do not build up fillets. This will
allow you to realign parts
if necessary and keep
you from gluing the jig tabs to the ribs.
We will
remind you to reinforce all glue joints later.
9.
Place rib W2 back onto the assembly. Align
W2 with the dashed line depicting where it contacts
the plan. Use the die-cut 1/8" plywood
dihedral
gauge
to set W2 at the correct angle. Glue it to the
bottom spar and the spar web. Glue W2 to the aft
inner spar using the dihedral gauge to set it at the
correct angle.
10. Test fit a 1/4"
x 3/8" x 36" balsa upper
spar in the notches of the ribs
so the end of the
spar aligns with rib W2. Glue the spar to the ribs
and the spar web with thick or medium CA.
Remember, don't use too much glue.
ALIGN THE LE W T H
THE TOP
OF EACH RIB
11. Cut a 1/4"
x 36" shaped balsa
leading
edge
to a length of 29-1/2". Glue the LE to ribs W4
through W14
so the top aligns with the tops of the
ribs (the same as on the stab).
-
12.
Bevel the end
of
the remaining piece of
6-1/2" leading edge
so it matches the LE on the
wing when you position it on ribs W4, 3 and 2. Glue
it in position. Glue
rib W4A
to
the side of rib W4.
Hint:
Glue the LE to rib W2
last
so
you can use
the dihedral gauge to make sure W2 is at the
correct angle.
NOTE:
Use a long straightedge along the length of
W2 to insure that it is flat along it's length (from the
LE to the TE).
-
23
-
Beech Fact:
Among other famous Beechcraft models,
some include variations of the stagger-wing biplane;
several versions of the 18A which is a twin engine, low
wing mono-plane (distinguishable by its twin rudders);
a light, single engine model named the Musketeer; a
sort of
bare-bones
straight tail Bonanza called the
Debonaic
the T-34 (which is a
U S . Navy trainer); and
of course, several versions of the ever-popular twin
engine
Baron.
SHEET THE TOP
OF
THE WlNGPANELS
1.
Use a large sanding block or a bar sander
with 150-grit sandpaper to sand the tops of the top
spar, aft spars, LE and ribs
so they all smoothly
blend together. Make sure the tops of the aft spars
match the tapering angle of the ribs but sand the
ribs lightly
so you maintain the designed
airfoil shape.
2. Remove the T-pins from the bottom spar
and replace them
so they are all sticking in from
the front. This way you will be able to remove them
when the aft top sheet is in position. Remove the
T-pins from the aft jig tabs and replace them in
every other jig tab
so they all go into the building
board at the same angle
(you know the drill).
Remove the weights from the top of the wing
(if you
used them).
Note:
If you observe that the wing panel remains
flat and all the jig tabs are contacting your building
board when you remove the T-pins, you may leave
the T-pins out of the jig tabs. In this case the
weights that will be used to hold the sheeting to the
ribs will be enough to hold the wing flat to your
building board.
