5
Instruction Manual
Mounting the IWTS-28 SUB
NoTE:
We always recommend a professional be involved in the
installation of IWTS speakers, if at all possible.
You will need the Grille/Frame assembly GFR-626, sold separately.
The GFR-626 can be easily
mounted in most any standard
wall material, from ½ to 1½
inches thick. Its rotating wall
clamps (sometimes called “dog
legs”) firmly fix it to the wall
surface after the proper cutout
has been made. Here are some
important precautions to take
before mounting:
Keep the sides of the actual
mounting hole at least 1½ inches
away from beams or studs to
ensure that the clamps have adequate room to rotate. A stud or other
obstruction that’s too close will stop them from properly doing their job.
Installation of the IWTS-28 SUB in New
Construction
Atlantic Technology offers an optional Rough-in Frame Kit to ease instal-
lation in new construction. Instructions for its use are included with this
kit. Ask your Atlantic dealer for more details. The kit’s model number is
IN-NC-626.
Installation of the IWTS-28 SUB in Existing
Construction
Removing and Installing the Grille
Remove the grille from the speaker using an awl or the point of a drywall
screw in a grille opening near one of the grille corners. Slowly pry the grille
out, being careful not to damage the speaker’s frame or its finish.
To re-install the grille later, press it carefully into the appropriate opening in
the frame assembly. Since it’s designed to fit snugly, please take your time
and use care when installing the grille.
Treating the Wall Cavity
The IWTS-28 SUB does not require a back box. It is designed to work prop-
erly in a standard full-sized wall cavity. This is commonly called an “infinite
baffle” installation. However even though there is no back box, you should
exercise good acoustic/mechanical common sense, and prepare the wall
cavity as follows:
• Make sure there are no extraneous house electrical wires, plumbing,
junction boxes, or other items that could rattle or vibrate from the 28
SUB’s output. A subwoofer moves a considerable amount of air, and if
something
can
rattle, it probably
will
rattle. It’s much, much easier to
‘button everything down’ securely before you install the sub then it is
to try to hunt down an intrusive buzz or rattle later on.
• Seal all the stud-to-drywall seams with a flexible silicone construction
caulk. This will help keep the drywall itself from flexing and rattling
against the studs, and it helps form a more airtight “enclosure” for the
28 SUB.
• Fill the wall cavity loosely with acoustic speaker stuffing (“polyfill”). It
is not necessary to pack the stuffing in extremely tight; in fact, that will
reduce the bass output.
• If this is new construction, we strongly recommend using
5
⁄
8
” or ¾”
sheetrock. It’s heavier and more expensive than ½” material, but it’s far,
far superior in terms of acoustic/mechanical integrity and rigidity. We
also strongly recommend that the sheetrock be screwed to the studs
every 6 inches or so, instead of the more common practice of nailing
it every 12-18”. Use screws for at least a full stud bay on either side of
where the 28 SUB will be mounted.
• If you drill a hole in the stud to snake the speaker wires through, be
certain to seal that hole with silicone caulk.
Installation
