24
:: Tuning Tips (cont.)
Rear Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the back. Negative camber means
that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Adding a small amount of positive camber,
where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line acceleration on loose tracks.
Optional #1719 camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.
Front Camber Links:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than
adjusting the ball end height on the tower. Shortening the camber link
(or lowering the ball end) will give the front end less roll and quicken steering
response. Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball end) will give the
front more roll and slower steering response. Longer camber links are
typically used on high grip tracks and shorter links tend to work better on
medium-grip loose tracks.
*Raise or lower the
ball end by adding
or subtracting
washers here
!
Rear Camber Link:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting
the ball end height on the rear chassis brace. Shortening the camber link
(or lowering the ball end) will give the rear end less roll and the car will tend to
accelerate or “square up” better. Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball
end) will give the rear more roll and more cornering grip. Longer camber links are
typically used on high grip tracks, while shorter links tend to work better on
medium grip loose tracks. The kit setting is the best compromise of cornering grip
and acceleration.
*Raise or lower
the ball end by
adding or
subtracting
washers here
!
Ackermann:
Ackermann is the angle difference between the front wheels when they are turned to steer the car. For minimal tire
slip, it is standard for the inside wheel to steer to a greater angle than the outside wheel. The SC5M allows ackermann
adjustments by changing the washer thickness used behind the steering rack ballstuds. The kit setup uses 2mm
washers and is most common for racing conditions. If corner entry steering is too aggressive, try increasing the
ackermann by removing shims from behind the steering rack ballstuds. Increasing the ackermann will increase the
angle difference of the front wheels when steered, resulting in a more stable car on corner entry.
Front Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when
looked at from the front. Negative camber means that the tire leans
inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Positive camber,
where the top of the tire is leaning out, is not recommended.
Optional #1719 camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.
*Testing camber
with camber gauge
!
Slipper Clutch:
The assembly instructions give you a base setting for your clutch. Turn the nut on the shaft so that the end of the top
shaft is flush with the nut. At the track, tighten or loosen the nut in 1/8 turn increments until you hear a faint slipping
sound for 1-2 feet on takeoffs. Another popular way to set the clutch is to hold both rear tires firmly in place and apply
short bursts of throttle. If the clutch is properly set, the front tires should lift slightly up off the surface.
Ride Height:
Ride height is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the chassis.
The standard front ride height setting is with the front arms level
(reffered to as “arms level”) or 30mm (Ride Height Gauge #1449).
Check the ride height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12 inches off the
bench and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into place, measure
ride height (Ride Height Gauge #1449). Add or Remove pre-load spac-
ers as necessary so that the left & right arms appear to be level.
The rear ride height setting you should use most often is with the
outdrive, driveshaft, and axles all on the same imaginary horizontal line
(reffered to as “bones level”) or 28mm (Ride Height Gauge#1449).
Check the ride height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12 inches off the
bench and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into place, measure
ride height (Ride Height Gauge #1449). Add or Remove pre-load spac-
ers as necessary so that the left & right driveshafts appear to be level.
*Front arms inner
and outer hinge pins
should be in a
imaginary horizontal
line when ride height
is set
!
*CVA bones should
be in a straight line
when ride height is
set at “CVA bones
level”
!
Summary of Contents for DR10
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