Trouble
shooting
If any of the channels does not go out completely:
Sometimes the LEDs don't go out completely (especially the Blue channel, because the
blue LED is very sensitive). If this happens, carefully clean the flux residue from around
Q3-6 (of course with the power off) using a cotton bud and pure alcohol. The FETs are very
sensitive to being partially turned on due to tracking over the flux. Let the board dry
completely before re-testing.
Notes:
•
You can install either LEDs or neons as the colon indicators. There is a minor change to the
components depending on which you choose.
•
For LEDs
: You need to connect P1 “VIN” to “COM” and choose 1k values for R38 and R39. You need
to take care of the polarity of the LEDs, following what is marked on the board.
•
For neons
: You need to connect “170V” to “COM” and choose 120k values for R38 and R39. The
polarity of the neons does not matter.
•
Q3 - Q6 should be orientated with the flat side as shown on the board. Some FETs come with the
leads in a row rather than in a triangle. If this is the case, bend the middle lead slightly so that it fits
the holes in the board (see hint).
•
R17 is needed to bias the LDR ambient light detection circuit, to make sure that the LED lights up
reliably.
•
Mount the RGB LEDs close to the board, but be
careful not to strain the LED too much. Normally it
is best to mount the LEDs until the “lump” in the
leads (about 3 – 4mm proud of the board). If you
mount the LEDs too high, the tubes have to be
mounted much too high from the board.
•
The “colon” LEDs need to be mounted proud of the
board, on moderately rigid extension wires. It is
not easy to estimate the height they should be
mounted at yet (it will become clear once you
mount the tubes), so for the moment, make the
leads longer than you will need.
•
Be careful to adequately insulate the LED leads
using some heat shrink or excess plastic sleeving.
•
The RGB LEDs have a tiny “o” on the board to indicate where the common anode goes. The anode
is the
longest
lead of the RGB LED.