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Place the rear arch

on the rear plate of the bottom.

Place the small side arch between the front

and rear arch. Side arches should be placed with a hole 

towards the front portal.

Place the central part of the arch with a hole

towards the chimney. Shape should be placed

on the top of the arch.

Place the last two shaped pieces

into the remaining space so that the locks match.

Place the rear body to the

stand above the rear arch. 

Place the front parts T9 and T10 of the body to 

the stand above the front arch (push the 

front edge of the body to the portal as 

much as possible). Before you connect 

the two parts, apply adequate 

amount of silicone caulk into the 

locks and on the whole 

surface between the parts. 

Make sure the caulk don’t fill 

a hole for the thermometer. Main-

tain a dilatational interstice at least 3 

mm between the upper edge of the front 

arch and the front part of the body. For this 

purpose place the supplied dilatation pads under the 

side edges. If you use more than 2 pieces of pads on top of 

each other, bind them together using silicone caulk. (A purpose of the silicone 
caulk application between the two front parts is to connect them so that they 
don’t spread and also as a protection against water if you don’t follow the 

warranty conditions to place the oven under a roof.)

Cover the assembled arch with at least 1 layer of 
aluminium foil I8. Place the isolation bio-mat on the 
aluminium foil according to the cutting plan for the 
bio-mat. Make sure the bio-mat doesn’t get distorted 

during the application.

Place the central 

part of the body on the 

stand between individual 

parts of the body so that the 

cutouts of individual shaped pieces 

match and joints are as narrow as 

possible. If it is necessary to align the parts, place the supplied dilatation 
pads under the side edges, preferably at places marked by arrows (9 
points). Do not remove the pads. If you use more than 2 pieces of pads on 

top of each other, bind them together using silicone caulk.

Apply silicone caulk between the body parts and along 

oven circumference between the bottom edge of the 

body and the stand - into the formed joint, the used 

dilatation pads should also get fixed. Silicone the  

chinks  in  the  way  the  silicone  caulk  could  be 

removed in the case of necessity of disas-

sembling the oven  (e.g. in the case of a 

warranty claim).

A purpose of this silicone caulk application is 

to prevent water to get into the oven in the case 

you don’t follow the warranty conditions to place 

the oven under a roof. If you follow the conditions, it’s 

enough to fix the dilatation pads.

Cut out a hole for the chimney (through insulation and the aluminium foil). Place the rope seal 

into the opening in the front body into the prepared groove in the inner front arch to create 

two threads of rope seal. Insert carefully the chimney base until the cover flange sits 

properly on the oven body. You can check with your hand from inside of the chimney if 

the rope doesn’t get distorted while inserting the chimney base (if the rope gets 

damaged, heat and smoke can get into the space between the inner shapes 

and the body). Turn the dumper always lightly, not more than 90 degrees. 

Otherwise the thread may turn and the sign “open, closed” may not corre-

spond with an actual position. Preferably don’t pull out the chimney base 

out of the oven very often otherwise the rope seal may get damaged. When 

attaching chimney which is longer than half a meter, make sure that chimney 

system is not exerting excessive pressure on the body. Close the oven with steel door. 

Last, place the thermometer into the opening behind the chimney (for proper mounting it 

is necessary to pierce through the insulation).

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Place the front arch on the front plate of the bottom.

Then bolt the smoke guard to the arch. Do not

tighten the joints too firmly, otherwise the damage of the

refractory shapes may occur due to heat dilatation.

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