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inboard

Tools & Materials

Safety goggles
Dust mask
Angle finder
Electric drill with 10mm (3/8") or larger chuck capacity
Drill bit:

3mm 

or

 1/8"

Hole saw:

95mm 

or

 3-3/4" (fiberglass or wood hull)

105 mm 

or

 4-1/8" (metal hull)

Grinder (some installations)
Sandpaper
Mild household detergent 

or

 weak solvent (such as alcohol)

File (installation in a metal hull)
Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)
Allen wrench:

3/16"

Slip-joint pliers
Grommet(s) (some installations)
Cable ties
Water-based anti-fouling paint (

mandatory in salt water

)

Installation in a cored fiberglass hull (see page 4):

Hole saw for hull interior:

115mm 

or

 4-1/2"

Fiberglass cloth and resin

or

 Cylinder, wax, tape, and casting epoxy

Mounting Location

CAUTION:

 Do not mount in line with or near water intake or 

discharge openings, or behind strakes, fittings, or hull 
irregularities that will disturb the water flow.

• The water flowing under the hull must be smooth with a 

minimum of bubbles and turbulence (especially at high speeds).

• The transducer must be continuously immersed in water.

• The transducer beam must be unobstructed by the keel or 

propeller shaft(s).

• Choose a location away from interference caused by power and 

radiation sources such as: the propeller(s) and shaft(s), other 
machinery, other echosounders, and other cables. The lower 
the noise level, the higher the echosounder gain setting that 
can be used.

• Choose an accessible spot inside the vessel with a minimum of 

178 mm (7") of space for the height of the housing, installing the 
spacer, and tightening the nut and set screws.

CHIRP transducer

—Mount in a cool well-ventilated area away 

from the engine to avoid overheating.

Pairs

—Mount the transducers across from one another on 

opposite sides of the centerline (keel) (see Figure 4).

Boat Types

 (see Figure 3)

Planing hull powerboats

—Mount well aft, near the centerline, 

and 

well inboard of the first set of lifting strakes

 to ensure that the 

transducer will be in contact with the water at high speeds. The 
starboard side of the hull where the propeller blades are moving 
downward is preferred.

Outboard and I/O

—Mount just forward of the engine(s).

Inboard

—Mount well ahead of the propeller(s) and shaft(s).

Stepped hull

—Mount just ahead of the first step.

Boat capable of speeds above 25kn

 (29MPH)—Review the 

installation location and operating results of similar boats before 
proceeding.

Installation

Hole Drilling & Dry Fitting

Cored fiberglass hull

—Follow separate instructions on page 4.

1. From inside the hull, using the hull nut as a guide to ensure 

ample space, mark the center point. Then drill a 3mm or 1/8" 
pilot hole. If there is a rib, strut, or other hull irregularity near the 
selected mounting location, drill from the outside.

2. Using a 95mm 

or

 3-3/4" hole saw, cut a hole from outside of the 

hull perpendicular to the hull surface. It may be necessary to 
enlarge the hole slightly using a grinder or file.

Stainless steel housing in a metal hull

—Use a 105 mm 

or

 4-

1/8" hole saw to accommodate the isolation bushing. It may be 
necessary to enlarge the hole slightly using a grinder or file.

3. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to 

ensure that the sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is 
any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild 
household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.

Metal hull

—Remove all burrs with a file and sandpaper.

4. Dry fit the transducer to determine if the spacer must be cut. 

From outside the hull, push the housing through the mounting hole 
(see Figure 5). From inside, slide one of the washers onto the 
housing. Slide the spacer onto the housing with the open end 
facing the hull. Add the remaining washer. 

Be sure a minimum 

of 

THREE

 threads are showing on the housing above the 

washer.

 If not, cut the spacer to make it shorter. When cutting 

the spacer, 

be sure to cut the open end

 (see Figure 6).

2

Figure 3.

Best location for the transducer

stepped hull

outboard and I/O

Copyright © 2007 - 2011 Airmar Technology Corp.

Figure 4. Connecting a Pair—single transmission line

Copyright © 2008 Airmar Technology Corp.

200kHz

50kHz

pigtail

Summary of Contents for Tilted Element B164

Page 1: ...leaner fuel sealant paint and other products may contain solvents that can damage plastic parts especially the transducer s face IMPORTANT For optimal performance apply marine sealant to the entire inside surface of the spacer This will fill the gap between the spacer and the sidewall of the transducer preventing vibration IMPORTANT Read the instructions completely before proceeding with the insta...

Page 2: ...water at high speeds The starboard side of the hull where the propeller blades are moving downward is preferred Outboard and I O Mount just forward of the engine s Inboard Mount well ahead of the propeller s and shaft s Stepped hull Mount just ahead of the first step Boat capable of speeds above 25kn 29MPH Review the installation location and operating results of similar boats before proceeding In...

Page 3: ...o the threads of the set screws Using an Allen wrench tighten each set screw until it makes contact with the housing threads Continue to tighten an additional 1 8 to 1 4 turn This will hold the hull nut firmly in place Failure to do so may allow the hull nut to vibrate loose 5 Remove any excess marine sealant on the outside of the hull to ensure smooth water flow under the transducer Cable Routing...

Page 4: ...le resin and lay it inside the hole to seal and strengthen the core Add layers until the hole is the correct diameter Alternatively a hollow or solid cylinder of the correct diameter can be coated with wax and taped in place Fill the gap between the cylinder and hull with casting epoxy After the epoxy has set remove the cylinder 6 Sand and clean the area around the hole inside and outside to ensur...

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