2. Remove any dust, grease, or oil with a weak solvent, such as
alcohol, to ensure a good bond. Clean and dry the selected
area.
Caution
: The tank must be liquid-tight.
DO NOT use a silicone based adhesive, as mineral oil will
dissolve the bond.
DO NOT use epoxy, because it is too runny and becomes brittle
when cured.
3. Using standard fiberglass technique, glass the tank to the hull.
Or
apply a bead of recommended adhesive (such as Boatlife
®
Lifeseal
®
or 3M
™
#4200) to the bottom edge of the tank
following the manufacture’s instructions. Press the tank firmly in
place. Apply a second bead of adhesive around the inside of
the tank. Apply a third bead around the outside of the tank (see
Figure 7).
4. Allow the fiberglass resin or adhesive to cure. The seal
must
be
liquid-tight.
Installing the Transducer
1. After the fiberglass resin or adhesive around the tank has cured,
insert the cork liner. Butt the edges along the center of the tallest
side; note there may be a gap.
Be sure
the cork liner does not
extend above the tank (see Figure 7).
2. Pour mineral oil into the tank until it reaches the appropriate
level as shown in Figure 7.
Caution
: Do not use sealant or adhesive on the gasket. To do
so may break the tank when the transducer is removed.
3. Before installing the transducer, wipe it clean of any lubricant
that was used in testing the location. Checking to
be sure
the
gasket is in place around the transducer, grasp it by the handles
and lower it into the tank. There is no fore or aft to the
transducer; it fits either way (see Figure 8).
Caution
: Do not
over-tighten
the bolts. To do so may cause the
tank to crack.
4. Attach the transducer to the tank in each corner with a 3/8-16 x
1-3/4" bolt and washer above and a washer and lock nut below.
Lightly tighten the bolts with a socket or wrench.
Do not
over-
tighten
the bolts.
Note
: To top-off the mineral oil in the tank, remove the two fill/
vent plugs. Pour mineral oil through one of the holes until the
tank is full. The second hole will act as a vent. Re-plug both
holes.
Caution:
Do not remove the connector to ease cable routing. If
the cable must be cut and spliced, use Airmar’s splash-proof
Junction Box 33-035 and follow the instructions provided.
Cutting the cable or removing the connector, except when using
this junction box, will void the warranty.
5. Route the cable to the echosounder
being careful
not to tear the
cable jacket when passing it through the bulkhead(s) and other
parts of the boat. To reduce electrical interference, separate the
transducer cable from other electrical wiring and the engine(s).
Coil any excess cable and secure it in place with zip-ties to
prevent damage.
6. Refer to your echosounder owner’s manual to connect the
transducer to the instrument.
Replacement Transducer & Parts
Obtain a replacement In-hull Kit 33-434-01 from your marine
dealer or instrument manufacturer. The information needed to
order a replacement Airmar transducer is printed on the cable tag.
Do not
remove this tag. When ordering, specify the part number,
date, and frequency in kHz.
AIRMAR
TECHNOLOGY CORPORATION
35 Meadowbrook Drive, Milford, New Hampshire 03055-4613, USA
■
www.airmar.com
Figure 8. Installing the transducer—M260 shown
bolt (4)
washer (4)
transducer
washer (4)
lock nut (4)
tank
Figure 7. Cross section of installed transducer—M260 shown
gasket
fiberglass
mineral oil
hull
in place
or
apply
three beads
of adhesive
cork liner
M256—fill here
M260—fill here
3/8-16 x
cork liner
1-3/4"
fill/vent
plug (2)
(as shown)
gasket
4
